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Baldung99

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 8, 2019
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EDIT: So I ran across a Japanese site - this one - where someone had posted full pinouts about the PSU... especially how to turn it on. Which I did and it fired up just fine. I plugged in a couple of dead hard drives (to simulate load) and tested each of the power lines. Only oddity I found was that the standby voltage changes very slightly depending whether the PSU is on or off (4.79V when off, 4,87V when on). I highly doubt that the very slight (0.1V to 0.2V) inconsistencies between nominal voltage and what I measured.

Still the thing wouldn't exactly power on, even with my jury-rigged PRAM battery.

I say it wouldn't turn on, but I think it sort of did. I pressed the 'reset' button, then the power switch and a little green LED on the motherboard came on along with the LED on the power switch. The CPU fan didn't spin up however. I let it sit like that for a moment, then tried powering it on again - and nothing. I tried forcing power into the system just to watch some fireworks, but then the speaker popped, the CPU fan came on and the LEDs too... but no chime and I couldn't get a picture regardless what dip combination I used on my adapter.

After forcibly powering it on a few times, now it powers on and it chimes - but still no picture.

What even is going on.

A friend of mine gave this to me, after apparently finding it near a recycling bin. Obvoiusly in completely unknown condition and such... there was even a CD stuck in the drive. Its front had also fallen off and now it looks even uglier than usual.

After a bit of cleanup (all the dust was under the motherboard) I decided to measure the outputs of the PSU and well, I discovered that this thing makes a weird clicking sound. So at this point I'm assuming the PSU is gone. Since it's apparently horribly difficult to find an AT power supply locally, how do I troubleshoot and possibly repair it? If I can't repair it, can I modify an ATX PSU to work with it?

The clock battery is obviously dead but thankfully I can replace it with three AA batteries in parallel. Thankfully the hard drive is working. I could probably test the optical and floppy drives but eh, I've got more pressing problems with that system.

Now there's yet another problem: how do I get video out of it? I can't seem to find an adapter locally and I'm not at all willing to wait weeks for one to arrive from who knows where so I decided I should make my own. Problem is, I can't seem to find the pinout for that Apple display port. I've also got a Matrox Millenium GPU (Matrox Millenium 590-05 REV.B 4MB), which I've read can be used as a passthrough for video... and of course I can't really find the pinout of the port on the card itself (it has VGA and another wider port, I'm talking about the wide port whose name I don't know). The idea here is, obviously, making either the Apple-to-Matrox adapter or the Apple-to-VGA adapter, so I need to foind the socket pinouts.
 
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AphoticD

macrumors 68020
Feb 17, 2017
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Great to hear about your 4400 find. I’ve had a few of these Macs over time (the Australian “7220” variety).

Another Aussie posted love for the 7220/4400 here:

(Check the “Apple” nav menu for more articles on the 7220)

In this post they describe hacking together a DB-15 to VGA cable (with pics) from information found here:

Post some pics of your efforts with the old battle axe. :apple:

And good luck!
 
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Baldung99

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 8, 2019
75
24
@AphoticD this... looks like exactly what I need! Now all I need is to archive this site in a form that can be saved on my hard drive.

Except that he repairs the PSU and I think about replacing it... and that I'll probably have to resort to soldering directly on the motherboard to get video out of it because has it been unreasonably hard to find a DB15 connector locally.
 
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Baldung99

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 8, 2019
75
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... welp, I realized I need an ADB keyboard and mouse and I don't even have a compatible USB card it seems.

It'll either be over 100€ or from China.

Converters aren't that much better. And most seem to be focused on getting ADB devices to work over USB. As a PC guy... what the heck happened here? PS/2 peripherals of the same era are a dime a dozen.
 
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Baldung99

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 8, 2019
75
24
It's kinda sad when you google a problem and your own forum post pops up. But it's just my luck...

The site @AphoticD suggested would have been helpful. In the case that I was dealing with an ATX power supply (like the blog owner). Mine is old-school AT. It took me the best part of this month trying to hunt down an appropriate PSU but wow are these things rare. At the very least, I could now throw together a crude Apple-to-VGA adapter, which I suppose is good. It looks like I could get the appropriate voltages through a normal ATX power supply, but that's something I just can't risk - since I can't seem to find the pinout for the original PSU that I have.

I checked what I could. The fuse is fine, I cleaned the fuse contacts, inspected the board itself as best as I could and found no obvious signs of damage (no bulged caps, no corrosion). Worse yet, I haven't been able to find out which wires I'm supposed to short to turn the thing on so I can test it. I also can't go around shorting pins at random or I'm just asking for trouble.

The PSU model is IBM 06H8825 (or API-3186S since that's printed on it and I found the other designation through Google).

Now there's another problem. Suppose everything is working fine and it's just my paranoia and the PSU is working fine. Aren't those things supposed to have the power button on the keyboard? Sure enough, there's a power button on the front too, but I'm not entirely sure which one actually turns the thing on, if that makes sense.
 
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AphoticD

macrumors 68020
Feb 17, 2017
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The push button on the front of the box will power it on with or without a keyboard. You can try jumping this switch at the logic board to rule out power button failure, but I don’t know which pins this relates to on the PSU.
 
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Baldung99

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 8, 2019
75
24
OK, fantastic. This whole thing took a turn for the worse just now.

I plugged in the PSU and a breaker tripped.

So somewhere, somehow, while pulling it off partially to inspect it, I managed to cause a short.

Now I *really* need a pinout diagram.

EDIT: I must have messed something up when I first put it together, but now it doesn't trip the breaker. And the clicking is back. Anyway I turned the PCB around and saw something that looked like decades-old flux residue or corrosion. I'm attaching some pictures of the PCB itself IMG_20191127_170946.jpg IMG_20191127_170950.jpg IMG_20191127_170954.jpg IMG_20191127_170958.jpg IMG_20191127_171007.jpg IMG_20191127_171021.jpg
 
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