I’ve had a set of old school hi-fi speakers for awhile, originally a part of the Panasonic SA-AK47 ‘shelf’ stereo audio system — which had a mainboard failure.
![bua4sxdyopct4jleghjk.webp]()
Specifications:
Tweeter: Piezo type
Mid: 6 cm / ~2.4-inch dome type
Woofer: 12 cm / ~4.7-inch cone type
“Super Woofer”/Subwoofer: 17 cm / ~6.7-inch cone type
Power: up to 160W @ 6 ohms
![s-l960.png]()
The subwoofer is wired separate from the mid and high speakers. While nice, it poses a little problem/hassle. For one, I’ve discovered it's difficult to find enclosed crossovers. I tried:
Suffice it to say, the cutoff/division frequency is far too high (2,800 Hz) and results in the midrange/woofer basically being nonexistent/unused. Therefore, I’m returning those crossovers.
Unfortunately, the second problem is finding a passive crossover, enclosed or not, that divides at a much lower frequency.
Alternatively, I considered using bass blockers. Unfortunately, a similar option for the larger/subwoofer (i.e., a low pass filter) doesn’t appear to be available in such a simple inline package — they much closer resemble crossovers with PCBs and multiple components.
Another option contemplated is using these:
However, not being enclosed — if only a knew a 3D printer enthusiast
— greatly increases the possibility of something coming in contact and shorting. Additionally, such a setup would require wiring the input in parallel, not the worst situation though does have its challenges, caveats, etc.
Any recommendations?
Anything I’ve overlooked?
Update:
For anyone that cares or has a similar situation, I ended up connecting the speakers in the way they were designed, with dual amplifiers, ditching the idea of a crossover or frequency divider. The AV receiver is powering the tweeters and the midrange with the following connected to the sub pre-amp out for the larger woofers.
fosiaudio.com
I have it set at the highest cutoff, 200Hz, and volume set to no more than 2/3, though 1/2 is plenty for most output.
Specifications:
Tweeter: Piezo type
Mid: 6 cm / ~2.4-inch dome type
Woofer: 12 cm / ~4.7-inch cone type
“Super Woofer”/Subwoofer: 17 cm / ~6.7-inch cone type
Power: up to 160W @ 6 ohms
The subwoofer is wired separate from the mid and high speakers. While nice, it poses a little problem/hassle. For one, I’ve discovered it's difficult to find enclosed crossovers. I tried:
HiQltyla 2 Way Speaker Crossover for Car Audio, WEAH 5003B, 200 Watts 4 to 8 Ohm Passive Crossover for Car Audio Tweeter - 2 Pack
2 Way Crossover for Car Audio Quantity：2 Model Number: WEAH-5003B Rated Power: 150W Maximum Tolerable Power: 200W Compatible with most brands and models of car audio, suitable for upgrading the sound quality of car mounted CD players Specifications: Material: ABS Plastics + Metal Color: Coffee V...
www.amazon.com
Suffice it to say, the cutoff/division frequency is far too high (2,800 Hz) and results in the midrange/woofer basically being nonexistent/unused. Therefore, I’m returning those crossovers.
Unfortunately, the second problem is finding a passive crossover, enclosed or not, that divides at a much lower frequency.
Alternatively, I considered using bass blockers. Unfortunately, a similar option for the larger/subwoofer (i.e., a low pass filter) doesn’t appear to be available in such a simple inline package — they much closer resemble crossovers with PCBs and multiple components.
Another option contemplated is using these:
Home
Parts Express 100 Hz Low Pass 8 Ohm CrossoverConvenient crossovers that work great in any application requiring economical and flexible filtering. Also for use in car stereo installations with component speaker systems. Low pass, band pass, and high pass models complement woofers, midranges, and...
www.parts-express.com
Home
100 Hz High Pass 8 Ohm CrossoverConvenient crossovers that work great in any application requiring economical, flexible filtering. Also for use in car stereo installations with component speaker systems. Low pass, band pass, and high pass models complement woofers, midranges, and tweeters...
www.parts-express.com
However, not being enclosed — if only a knew a 3D printer enthusiast
— greatly increases the possibility of something coming in contact and shorting. Additionally, such a setup would require wiring the input in parallel, not the worst situation though does have its challenges, caveats, etc.Any recommendations?
Anything I’ve overlooked?
Update:
For anyone that cares or has a similar situation, I ended up connecting the speakers in the way they were designed, with dual amplifiers, ditching the idea of a crossover or frequency divider. The AV receiver is powering the tweeters and the midrange with the following connected to the sub pre-amp out for the larger woofers.
Fosi Audio M03 Subwoofer Amplifier 200 Watt Mini Mono Audio Amp Full-Frequency and Sub Bass Switchable Amplifier
Fosi Audio M03 Mono Amp: Powerful and efficient Hi-Fi amplifier with a 200W output, perfect for single power subwoofer setup in home theater.
I have it set at the highest cutoff, 200Hz, and volume set to no more than 2/3, though 1/2 is plenty for most output.
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