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passatgt

macrumors 6502a
Original poster
Jun 16, 2011
538
429
Hi!

Recently got a 2009 iMac with a broken GPU and PSU, but the screen is fine. Ideal to convert this to an external display. I found multiple people doing this, but i find it that its not perfect and requires a lot of modification, so i want to create a "simpler way". I want this thread to be somewhere where we can brainstorm, share ideas and solutions. Before you start with this, keep in mind that this is better as a hobby project, because probably you can find a similar monitor cheaper(except if you like the glossy panel better than regular displays, which i do).

So i put a lot of thoughts into this and so far this is what i came up with. Let me know if you have other ideas to improve this. This is still a work in progress project, as i just started to order parts for it, but wanted to write it as a small journey.

Removed everything that was not necessary, so i have a blank shell. I kept the power button and 2 speakers.

IMG_4314.jpg


Bought this LCD driver kit for the display: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234456756136
I plan to mount this where the superdrive was. There is a cheaper option available, but that one has 2 separate PCBs, this one seems to include everything in one neat package. And i like the idea of having USB-C.

1674840174179.png


This driver needs a 24V / 5A power supply. I bought this one: https://www.digikey.hu/en/products/detail/xp-power/LCS150US24/15666821
This will fit at the same place where the original power supply was, only slightly smaller. I would need to 3d print a bracket for it though, so i can use at least 2 screws to fit it on place

1674840145509.png


The OSD buttons, i plan to mount them where the ram slot is. I will create a 3d print for this, so it can be screwed in the same way as the original ram cover. Found a model in Thingiverse, so i can modify this to fit.

The original power button can be connected to the on/off button on the OSD board, its a simple push button.

The tricky part is the ports. My idea is to create a PCB that kinda looks like this:

1674840446427.png


I measured everything and created a 3d model for now, but i will look for someone who can create a working PCB based on these(maybe you can help?). This board can be mounted where the original ports are. 2 USB A ports are coming from the LCD Driver board. The third USB A is the USB B connector on the LCD board(i mean its the same thing, just a different form-factor. If needed, one can use an USB-A -> USB-B adapter). A mini-hdmi connector will fit in the 4th USB port, this obviously connects to the HDMI port on the LCD board. I think its a good idea to go with mini-hdmi, this way we don't need to cut an extra hole(or enlarge an extra hole) on the iMac. And an hdmi-minihdmi cable is not expensive at all. Based on my calculations, the USB-C socket will fit in place of the firewire connector perfectly. This way we don't need to cut any extra holes, the existing ports will works just fine.

The other side of the PCB will look like this:

1674840746561.png


In theory, we could use a short male-male hdmi and usb-c cables to connect the doughter board to the LCD driver board. For USB, we can use a male USB to 5 pin dupont/molex header(this is cheaper than male-male short usb cable). As you can see, i want to use the existing speakers and at least once of the fans, probably the CPU fan, so it can cool the power supply. For the speakers, i found the correct receptacle. Left speaker is 5 pin(only 4 used though), right one is 4 pin. It is a Molex Pico-SPOX, part number 874380543 and 874380443. So we can connect the speakers without the need to modify the connectors on them. These speakers are 2 channel(woofer+tweeter) 15W. Looked up the schemantics for the logic board and Apple used 2 separate amps for the speakers, part number TPA3117D2. These are still available, but we can look for cheaper options, or maybe a single amp that can handle all 4 speakers. The amps are connected to the 4 PIN header, and then we can connect that to the LCD board audio output.

Tricky parts is the fans. Apple uses a 4 pin fan and based on my research its not easy to control the RPM of these fans. Another issue is that the fans are 12V and our power supply is 24V. If we are lucky, maybe the LCD driver board will have a 12V output somewhere, otherwise we need some extra stuff on the daughter board. I will check once i receive the driver board. Here is the schematics for the fans:
Screenshot 2023-01-27 at 18.42.35.png

If someone can figure out an easy way to power this fan at the lowest RPM(1000) easily, let me know... The CPU fan cable is not long enough to reach the daughter board, so that needs to be extended with a connector.

One more 3d print is necessary for the mounting of the daughter board: on the original motherboard, all of the ports are angled at 70 degrees instead of normal 90degree ports. So a 3d printed peace will be necessary that can fix the PCB in place at an angle. Thats why we need to go with a double sided PCB sadly(this is more expensive), because of the angle, the components won't fit.

We can also re-use the existing headphone jacks. I found the connector that apple used for these on the original motherboard, but sadly its not available anymore.
1674841943418.png


We can cut the original connector off and simply hook up a 3.5mm jack. Found the wiring in the schematics:

1674842161013.png


So in theory we can connect AUD_LI_GND_JACK+AUD_HP_GND_JACK with our ground, AUD_LI_R_JACK+AUD_HP_R_JACK with right audio, and AUD_LI_L_JACK+AUD_HP_L_JACK for left audio and just connect it to the LCD driver board 3.5mm jack. This way you can use either or both audio ports on the iMac for headphones.

So this is where i am at the moment. Let me know if you are working or worked on a similar project and share ideas how can this be improved.
 

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Nguyen Duc Hieu

macrumors 68030
Jul 5, 2020
2,888
946
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Great thread! Let's keep it alive and floating.

I guess the tailored made PCD would be more expensive than the LCD driverboard itself.
I would just keep it simple with the cheaper LCD driver board.
It costed me only 25$ and provides 1 HDMI port. With only 1 cable going out the iMac case, it's still acceptable. It could be modified with a male to female HDMI extending cable with less effort.
I can add a USB-C hub + power adapter anytime I want externally or internally.

Copy from another thread about the same theme.

LCD driverboard kit (HDMI+VGA)= 25$ (this kit uses 12V/10A AC adapter)
12V10A apdapter: 19$


LCD driverboard kit (DP+HDMI+USB-C) = 75$ (this kit uses 24V5A AC adapter)


How to assemble it to the iMac: (Internal speakers are usable)



Webcam = 29$ (1080p with independent tilting and rotating capability)

Webcam = 5$ (to replace the isightCamera slot)


How to turn your iSightCamera to USB camera: (may lost the microphone)

USB-C hub = 23$
 
Last edited:
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passatgt

macrumors 6502a
Original poster
Jun 16, 2011
538
429
Great thread! Let's keep it alive and floating.

I guess the tailored made PCD would be more expensive than the LCD driverboard itself.
I would just keep it simple with the cheaper LCD driver board.
It costed me only 25$ and provides 1 HDMI port. With only 1 cable going out the iMac case, it's still acceptable. It could be modified with a male to female HDMI extending cable with less effort.
I can add a USB-C hub + power adapter anytime I want externally or internally.

Copy from another thread about the same theme.

LCD driverboard kit (HDMI+VGA)= 25$ (this kit uses 12V/10A AC adapter)
12V10A apdapter: 19$


LCD driverboard kit (DP+HDMI+USB-C) = 75$ (this kit uses 24V5A AC adapter)


How to assemble it to the iMac: (Internal speakers are usable)



Webcam = 29$ (1080p with independent tilting and rotating capability)

Webcam = 5$ (to replace the isightCamera slot)


How to turn your iSightCamera to USB camera: (may lost the microphone)

USB-C hub = 23$
The custom PCB is surprisingly cheap. Parts costs are around $12 on lcsc.com:
1674898170017.png


PCB print and assembly around 20-30$, but obviously we need gerber files and BOM to get correct pricing for it.

If we want to use the camera and maybe the SD card reader, a cable needs to go FROM the monitor to the computer, right? Maybe one of the USB ports can be used for this purpose. On my LCD board, theres 2 USB and 1 USB-B. I will test it, but i think only the USB-B will support a keyboard-mouse input when connectec with USB-C to a computer for display. I think the other two usb is just power out.

Both the SD card reader and camera looks like regular USB:

1674898745624.png

1674898754632.png
 
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passatgt

macrumors 6502a
Original poster
Jun 16, 2011
538
429
Great thread! Let's keep it alive and floating.

I guess the tailored made PCD would be more expensive than the LCD driverboard itself.
I would just keep it simple with the cheaper LCD driver board.
It costed me only 25$ and provides 1 HDMI port. With only 1 cable going out the iMac case, it's still acceptable. It could be modified with a male to female HDMI extending cable with less effort.
I can add a USB-C hub + power adapter anytime I want externally or internally.

Copy from another thread about the same theme.

LCD driverboard kit (HDMI+VGA)= 25$ (this kit uses 12V/10A AC adapter)
12V10A apdapter: 19$


LCD driverboard kit (DP+HDMI+USB-C) = 75$ (this kit uses 24V5A AC adapter)


How to assemble it to the iMac: (Internal speakers are usable)



Webcam = 29$ (1080p with independent tilting and rotating capability)

Webcam = 5$ (to replace the isightCamera slot)


How to turn your iSightCamera to USB camera: (may lost the microphone)

USB-C hub = 23$
By the way, did you find a solution to get the same brightness as the original display? Because there are darker sadly, even the 24V version i ordered.
 
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passatgt

macrumors 6502a
Original poster
Jun 16, 2011
538
429
The custom PCB is surprisingly cheap. Parts costs are around $12 on lcsc.com:
View attachment 2149425

PCB print and assembly around 20-30$, but obviously we need gerber files and BOM to get correct pricing for it.

If we want to use the camera and maybe the SD card reader, a cable needs to go FROM the monitor to the computer, right? Maybe one of the USB ports can be used for this purpose. On my LCD board, theres 2 USB and 1 USB-B. I will test it, but i think only the USB-B will support a keyboard-mouse input when connectec with USB-C to a computer for display. I think the other two usb is just power out.

Both the SD card reader and camera looks like regular USB:

View attachment 2149429
View attachment 2149430
Tested the SD card reader, it is indeed a simple USB device. Wiring:
USB BlackSD Reader black or light gray
USB RedSD Reader light brown
USB WhiteSD Reader purple
USB GreenSD Reader white

IMG_4319.jpeg


Works plug & play. I'll test out the camera too.

Edit: camera works too. Wiring:

USB BlackCamera black or dark gray
USB RedCamera brown
USB WhiteCamera light gray
USB GreenCamera purple

Shows up as iSight Camera, turns on when you start a recording:

IMG_4320.jpeg


So what we can do is add a cheap 2 port USB hub inside, connect both the camera and the SD card reader to the HUB, and the HUB to one of the USB ports on the daughter board. And in theory you can use a single usb-male -> usb-male cable to connect to your computer and you will have access to both.
 
Last edited:

Nguyen Duc Hieu

macrumors 68030
Jul 5, 2020
2,888
946
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
So what we can do is add a cheap 2 port USB hub inside, connect both the camera and the SD card reader to the HUB, and the HUB to one of the USB ports on the daughter board. And in theory you can use a single usb-male -> usb-male cable to connect to your computer and you will have access to both.

If one think about re-using the webcam and SD card reader, the USB-C hub will become handy. It can take HDMI, 2/3 USB-A ports and connect to the computer with just 1 USB-C cable. It can be powered by a small USB-C adapter, which can be put inside the iMac case as well.
The issue with this solution is the very-short USB-C cable of the hub. And a normal (cheap) USB-C extension cable might not be able to transmit video signal.

There is another option is to rewire the Camera and Card Reader to female USB-A sockets, then glue them to the existing holes on the iMac case.
 

passatgt

macrumors 6502a
Original poster
Jun 16, 2011
538
429
If one think about re-using the webcam and SD card reader, the USB-C hub will become handy. It can take HDMI, 2/3 USB-A ports and connect to the computer with just 1 USB-C cable. It can be powered by a small USB-C adapter, which can be put inside the iMac case as well.
The issue with this solution is the very-short USB-C cable of the hub. And a normal (cheap) USB-C extension cable might not be able to transmit video signal.

There is another option is to rewire the Camera and Card Reader to female USB-A sockets, then glue them to the existing holes on the iMac case.
We could add a simple USB2 hub on the daughter board, very few parts are necessary for this: https://www.retrocution.com/2020/01/15/easy-diy-tiny-usb-hub-for-raspberry-pi-projects/

But using an USB-C hub is an interesting idea too. We can still do a daughter board with Ethernet, 2 USB and an USB-C Port(these connects to the USB-C Hub) and one HDMI that connects to the display board or something like that.
 

Nguyen Duc Hieu

macrumors 68030
Jul 5, 2020
2,888
946
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
The daughterboard is a very interesting idea, but I wonder what is its purpose.
- For my very primitive use case, I just need 1 HDMI port. This can be done with an HDMI cable sticking out from any hole on the iMac. Or I can do like the Japanese guy in the video above and use an HDMI male to female cable to create an HDMI input port on the iMac case, in the place of the original USB port.

For your usecase, you may want to have all 4 ports on the back of the iMac case:
1. - HDMI => HDMI extension cable male to female.
2. DP => DP extension cable male to female
3. USB-C => I couldn't find a USB-C extension cable in reasonable price to make USB-C port on the iMac case, so I guess I would just stick with the common USB-C cable male to male which is capable of delivering video signal and power at the same time.
4. USB-A: USB-A extension cables are cheap and available.

To re-use the webcam and SD card reader, it's another story.
Option A:
You might have to be consent with 2 USB cable dangling out from the case, or
OptionB:
rewire the webcam and SD card reader with USB-A female socket.
From the computer side, you will then need another 2 USB-A male to male cables.
If the USB cable made for GPU mining rigs are usable for this purpose, then it is solved. If not, finding a compatible USB-A male to male cable is a headache.
Option 3:
Cut and join your own USB cable... Is it possible? (I can't imagine how to do it)
 

vddrnnr

macrumors 6502
Jan 23, 2017
493
748
Hi @passatgt,

Thanx for sharing.
One question what do you think about replacing the logic board with one from a broken
macbook?

Best regards,
voidRunner
 

passatgt

macrumors 6502a
Original poster
Jun 16, 2011
538
429
Hi @passatgt,

Thanx for sharing.
One question what do you think about replacing the logic board with one from a broken
macbook?

Best regards,
voidRunner
Sure, that could totally work. Connect the motherboard to the LCD driver board with HDMI for example. Hook up the original power button to the iMac's power button. Still need a way to route out ports though from the macbook's logic board, at least to have USB.
 

passatgt

macrumors 6502a
Original poster
Jun 16, 2011
538
429
The LCD Driver board just arrived, here are a couple of pics of it. Interesting details with the small jumper wire and that the plug is 1 places to the right side pushing a transistor... but this is how it supposed to work.

IMG_4334.jpg


IMG_4335.jpg


IMG_4336.jpg


IMG_4338.jpg


Tried to look this up and fond this Skyworth 27" display which pretty much has the same board, just slightly different port aligment: https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/578208685

I don't have a compatible power supply yet, but i will try to test it later this week.
 

passatgt

macrumors 6502a
Original poster
Jun 16, 2011
538
429
Updated daugtherboard idea:

Add a nipple control(like many monitors do nowadays), it can fit where the ethernet port is :) 5 state(up, down, left, right, push), the same as the buttons come with the lcd board. The power will be hooked up to the imac's power button anyway, so we don't need that.
 
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zoran

macrumors 601
Jun 30, 2005
4,732
126
Hi guys, has anyone actually managed to fix the brightness issue by using a 8A or 10A adapter, or have u managed to fix the low brightness at all?
 
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exploradorgt

macrumors member
Aug 25, 2023
60
32
Hi @passatgt, any updates on the project? does the board controller still works? I have some information to contribute to the idea (and some questions too at the end of my post). Yes, I have the same iMac model (27" 2009).
If someone can figure out an easy way to power this fan at the lowest RPM(1000) easily, let me know... The CPU fan cable is not long enough to reach the daughter board, so that needs to be extended with a connector.
Pretty sure these 4 wire units are stepper motors, I've come across them and it seems too much of a challenge to make them work, unless you want to use an Arduino with a stepper motor controller, not worth it in my opinion. There are simpler and cheaper models for this using 2 wires (+-), or 3 (+- and speed hall-effect sensor, in such case you just need the +-, it's ok to ignore the sensor as it's only used to feedback speed). Lucky me, I have 2 of those around from old HP AIO damaged computers.

The custom PCB is a good idea, you could put everything together with a decent USB HUB. As for the wiring I'm not sure, at least in my case it sounds to me like a lot of work to fit everything perfectly, but it's doable with some patience.

Personally... I've been thinking on using the guts from a laptop along the lcd board controller, this would allow me to use the screen, and to just plug the rest of stuff (webcam + speakers + SD card reader, and even the DVD SuperDrive, all just using USB), it's worth doing some numbers, as broken-screen laptops are available for cheap, and the amount of work is comparable (or less) vs doing lots of wiring. You can easily end up with a brand new computer that you can also use as a monitor (external video connection).

- - - - - - - - - - -

I will appreciate your feedback (everyone posting here) :cool:

  • If you already bought a board controller, is still working?
    I'm finding testimonials from buyers who were happy for a while, but the boards stopped working, some bought a new one after this only to face the same bad luck. I'm not sure if there is any difference between buying at Amazon or AliExpress, as the boards look the same, some have the same name and chips.

    I'm hesitant on buying and doing lots of hard work just to get the board failing after a couple of months. The testimonials/reviews also appear on Amazon :(


  • I see people having backlight issues, not achieving full brightness, did anyone around here managed to solve this?



  • Now... what about Display Port? :p, turns out these screens (you can check the specific model on the web) are edP. The 27" 2009 imac comes with the LM270WQ1-SDA2, this is edP, not LVDS. And such screens "can" be directly used with a Display Port cable. The wiring is quite simple, putting everything together sure takes time.

    This guy here shows how to wire directly an edP screen to Display Port cable:


    These 30 pin screens are standard, anyway it's worth checking the pinout first. What changes among models is the power requirements, but the board logic is the same. Found another guy who built the same thing here


    His work is based on the documentation provided here: https://flogbook.wordpress.com/2018/09/30/passive-displayport-to-edp-adapter/

    Now some details. The guy on the first video explains basic differences between edP 1, 1.2, 1.4, etc, and his example works out of the box, simple plug and play, but that screen is 1.2 (or 1.4), THEN he tries on another screen and it doesn't work, explaining it's a previous standard, so there is need for some tricks and proceeds to use an extra board just to kickstart the detection. Sadly, the screen on this iMac (2009) is the original edP, so it's pretty sure doing the wiring will end up needing some extra tricks that I don't know how to solve.

    The guy on the second video says, in theory, there shouldn't be any issues with any edP version, but I can't confirm any of that.

I haven't tried, not because I don't want to, I do. But I don't want to cut the PCB and damage anything before coming up to conclusions on the best way to go. The LCD board controller sounds as the solution, but it worries me to read people saying it stopped working after a few months... why? current? voltage issues? overheating?. I'm tempted to do some soldering and try building my own Display Port cable, but I'm trying to gather more information first.
 
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exploradorgt

macrumors member
Aug 25, 2023
60
32
If you have a working iMac 2009, save yourself the hassle of modding.
It is ready to be used in Target Display Mode.
I know about target display on this model, but mine has a completely dead GPU, and according to the documentation, it needs to have High Sierra or earlier (and other requirements), but so far, I understand this thing won't even boot without a GPU.

Do you have one? does it work without the GPU? could you confirm? I currently don't have a DisplayPort cable to test this myself.

- - Added

In theory... the display being edP, all the circuitry is there to just relay the DisplayPort input to the output pins where the LCD is connected, I've found others on the web talking about the same, none of them tried. But the specific requirement of needing High Sierra means there is something at software level doing the switch, activation, or relay. Again, in theory, the GPU shouldn't be needed at-all. But some of us not only have a non-working gpu, some of us have a fully dead hardware piece. As far as I have searched, I've been told the computer won't boot the OS if no GPU is installed, so... nope.
 
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Nguyen Duc Hieu

macrumors 68030
Jul 5, 2020
2,888
946
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
It's your choice.
AMD Firepro M5100 = 35$ => working iMac in TDM, maximum brightness.
Basic LCD driver kit (HDMI port) = 25$ + 5$ 12V power adapter. 70~80% brightness
Premium LCD driver kit (HDMI + DP + USB-C port) = 75$ + 10$ 24V adapter. 70~80% brightness.

To me, the kit is for iMac with only LCD panel still working.
If only the GPU was dead, I would find another GPU.
 

exploradorgt

macrumors member
Aug 25, 2023
60
32
It's your choice.
AMD Firepro M5100 = 35$ => working iMac in TDM, maximum brightness.
Basic LCD driver kit (HDMI port) = 25$ + 5$ 12V power adapter. 70~80% brightness
Premium LCD driver kit (HDMI + DP + USB-C port) = 75$ + 10$ 24V adapter. 70~80% brightness.

To me, the kit is for iMac with only LCD panel still working.
If only the GPU was dead, I would find another GPU.
Thanks, I'll see what I can find and report back.
 

Caner505

macrumors newbie
Dec 14, 2017
5
2
HI, great to find this thread! As people have been doing this but not a huge amount of resources.

I recently have done a similar project but using a Thunderbolt Cinema Display (which had a bad PSU), I similarly removed all the inners and used a driver board for my "LM270WQ1-SDB3" display
:

EDP Drive Board LCD Controller Kit For 27" 2K Monitor Display LM270WQ1-SDB3 VGA​


Paired with a 12v 5a psu , https://www.ebay.ie/itm/234659865634?var=534352736327.

Which is working great, however as mentioned regarding the brightness, if I have full brightness and open a window on the screen with a full white background example :
, the LCD goes black until I remove the immense amount of white pixels. I can about 80% of the screen covered in white when the brightness is turned down. I tried a more powerful PSU (12v 6a) however this didn't help and created wavering screen luminosity.

So to add to previous questions, is there a way to combat the 70% brightness issue? or am I conflating my issue with your guys? Thanks!
 
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Leandean

macrumors newbie
Apr 23, 2023
7
0
This is a great thread, let’s def keep it alive!
My screen kept going black and after reading this last post I guess it could be due to instances where the screen is mostly white. I’ll try to test it out more.
 

Nguyen Duc Hieu

macrumors 68030
Jul 5, 2020
2,888
946
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
HI, great to find this thread! As people have been doing this but not a huge amount of resources.

I recently have done a similar project but using a Thunderbolt Cinema Display (which had a bad PSU), I similarly removed all the inners and used a driver board for my "LM270WQ1-SDB3" display
:

EDP Drive Board LCD Controller Kit For 27" 2K Monitor Display LM270WQ1-SDB3 VGA​


Paired with a 12v 5a psu , https://www.ebay.ie/itm/234659865634?var=534352736327.

Which is working great, however as mentioned regarding the brightness, if I have full brightness and open a window on the screen with a full white background example :
, the LCD goes black until I remove the immense amount of white pixels. I can about 80% of the screen covered in white when the brightness is turned down. I tried a more powerful PSU (12v 6a) however this didn't help and created wavering screen luminosity.

So to add to previous questions, is there a way to combat the 70% brightness issue? or am I conflating my issue with your guys? Thanks!

This is still just an idea.
As the LCD backlight powerboard of the kit is not very good, you can re-use the stock LCD backlight poweboard instead, but there are still some DIY works to handle:
- Separate 12V power supply, directly from the 12V adapter, not from the main kit
- Correct detecting and rejoining the signal cable from the main kit.
An oscilloscope might be needed to read and adjust the PWM frequency of 100% brightness and minimum brightness to ensure that the kit provide the correct frequency. You can do trials-and-errors if you don't have the oscilloscope.

But anyway, if you insist on having 100% brightness, and your iMac is still working, I suggest you replace the GPU only.
 
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