Hello, I have a MacBook Pro 2011 model, and the computer itself has the LED on button lighting up, but the screen itself and the startup noise is not happening. Is this meaning that my computer needs a motherboard replacement, or does it mean that I just need to get a new computer all together? If I need a motherboard replacement, what would work the best, and be the cheapest option?
Got a tip for us?
Let us know
Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.
Macbook 2011 motherboard replacement
- Thread starter Chromebook Person
- Start date
- Sort by reaction score
Unless you can get replacement part really cheap it's probably not worth it, the 2011 had bad flaw with graphics chip so any board will be a ticking time domb. Better off thinking of a new computer if can. Can only fit another board from same model so there's not exactly much option.
Only the 15" MacBook pro had a problem with the graphics chip. The 13" uses the integrated Intel graphics.
Good point, I was just assuming that 15", but indeed not specified. If it is 15" then this is probably what has happened, if 13", then unclear!
If the Macbook Pro is a 13" and a motherboard replacement is preferred, get a motherboard from a mid-2012 13" because the early 2011 to mid-2012 13" Pros have all connections in the same place. My relative spilled water on his mid-2012 13" and I replaced the motherboard with a board from an early 2011. He lost USB 3.0 since the early 2011 has USB 2.0 but that was about it.
Last edited:
The 13" model DOES NOT have "RadeonGate" problems (it has an integrated GPU).
That IS NOT your problem.
What I'd try:
You'll need to take the back cover off.
You need a Phillips #00 driver to do this.
Take note of where the "longer" screws go (so you put them back into the right holes).
I'd try removing the RAM, and let it sit for an hour or two.
Then I'd put the RAM back in, put the back cover on, and try again.
BE CAREFUL when you remove the RAM. It's held in place by "retainer springs" that can be fragile and are easily broken. Again, use care when spreading these apart so that you can lift the RAM dimms out.
There are "PRAM" and "SMC" resets (sorry, I don't remember the key combinations).
I'd try both of those, as well.
Were you having the problems with charged connected, as well as disconnected?
That IS NOT your problem.
What I'd try:
You'll need to take the back cover off.
You need a Phillips #00 driver to do this.
Take note of where the "longer" screws go (so you put them back into the right holes).
I'd try removing the RAM, and let it sit for an hour or two.
Then I'd put the RAM back in, put the back cover on, and try again.
BE CAREFUL when you remove the RAM. It's held in place by "retainer springs" that can be fragile and are easily broken. Again, use care when spreading these apart so that you can lift the RAM dimms out.
There are "PRAM" and "SMC" resets (sorry, I don't remember the key combinations).
I'd try both of those, as well.
Were you having the problems with charged connected, as well as disconnected?
I was not having any problems with the computer charging, in fact the the charger LED lit up.