I think that's it.
Yes, there's a lot, but at the end of the day processing RC papers isn't that complicated.
I do recommend the use of rapid fixer in all circumstances-yes it's more expensive than Hypo but it frankly just works better(you really shouldn't be using anything else on T-grain film especially, and it has benefits on all types of film-paper is less pronounced) and among other advantages washes much easier than hypo. It saves you the need to use hypo-clear also, so is one less step in washing.
Really for RC papers, I use to rinse under the tap for a minute or so and line up a couple of paint tray liners on the floor(for 8x10 and smaller-you need real trays for bigger) and leave prints in them. If I was doing several prints, I'd just move them "down the line" as I made new prints. I'd usually have 4 or 5 paint trays, and a print would soak in each one for 5-10 minutes. When I'd take a print out of the last one in the line, I'd take the first tray, dump and refill it, and then make it the last tray if all of that makes sense. I know that may sound complicated, but it worked for me and basically just let me wash prints repeatedly in fresh water without needing to run it constantly. That was the whole point of the tray shuffling too-the last tray it would see would be absolutely, 100% clean water water.
A couple of other things-I opted to use citric acid stop bath. I actually never use stop with film, but generally found it useful with prints. Among other advantages, rapid fixer is acidic enough to act as its own stop, but developer carry-over does kill fixer capacity and prints(especially FB) can carry over a lot more developer than film. To keep rambling a bit more(sorry, an unfortunate habit of mine, but I love talking about this stuff, especially now that I'm so close but not quite there yet on having a darkroom again), and this is probably all stuff you know from your newspaper days, print developers are MUCH more active than most film developers. I basically just go straight for Dektol, even with Ilford paper, since it's a known entity. In any case, though, I always developed prints by inspection, and once they got where I wanted I wanted them to stop right then. Even just using an intermediate water rinse, I'd sometimes see prints continue to develop a bit rinsing in plain water. My choice of citric acid isn't for any print quality advantage that I know of-it's just that fixer smells bad enough on its own and I find the smell of glacial acetic acid repulsive, and not that much more pleasant when used at stop bath concentrations(I'm a chemist/chemistry professor and we've been doing a lab this week where the students use acetic anhydride, basically extra concentrated acetic acid to hand wave a bit, and I try to stay back as much as I can). Citric acid baths generally have no smell, or if they do it's faintly lemony. Pure Citric acid can be bought in a decent sized bag inexpensively under the brand name "Lemi-Shine"-note that this is probably the only time you'll see me advocating using a grocery store chemical in the dark room
(I shouldn't say that, as washing soda is also useful for home-brew developers, but I'm not a big fan of Caffenol, which seems to come and go in popularity).
In any case, the first few prints I did I ended up with them turning brown in spots in a few days. I never figured out if it was insufficient fixing or insufficient washing, but I never could go back and reprocess to get rid of it. Stop+an appropriate amount of time in the fixer(I forget what I did then, but a little over fixing within reason never hurt anything) and then the washing procedure I described above got rid of the problem for me. In fact I have one on my desk that's been out and framed since 2019 or so, and my mom has one of mine from 2017 framed in the living room, and neither shows any sign of deterioration.
This post has really made me want to push to start printing again. I miss it.
