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BlackBook for $50!
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Oh yeah! The filament LEDs and the bulbs made out of them! Very cool!
The filament is a tiny string of LEDs wired in series, and coated with phosphor.
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Most of them have a white base, but I don't like those. I like the ones that have no white base and have all the electronics in the edison base. They look very much like an incandescent bulb.
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mikeselectricstuff made a video of an LED filament bulb and talked all about LED filaments, but he talked quite fast and crazy and it was funnyCouldn't understand what he was saying.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_XiunR-cAQ
So, you said they have hydrogen gas to conduct heat to cool the LEDs, and these are more efficient? I didn't know that! Are these the most efficient bulbs out there today?
I vote for an LED light bulb thread!
the Ones Mike reviewed were the Poor mans version (a Real LED Filiment is not made of silicon doped with phosphor like his ones where) the Most efficient light bulb out there is the Low pressure sodium lamp Hitting 200LMW under its own power... also I said helium not hydrogen
The BlackBook arrived!
Dear all,
My awesome new Macbook arrived! It's super cool, the last of its kind. The SSD installation took about 5 minutes and now, half an hour later, I'm up and running with SL. The 'book does stay pretty hot on the bottom throughout operation--should I look into touching up the thermal paste? Anyway, I'm very satisfied with my $80 Intel Mac.
Dear all,
My awesome new Macbook arrived! It's super cool, the last of its kind. The SSD installation took about 5 minutes and now, half an hour later, I'm up and running with SL. The 'book does stay pretty hot on the bottom throughout operation--should I look into touching up the thermal paste? Anyway, I'm very satisfied with my $80 Intel Mac.
Dear all,
My awesome new Macbook arrived! It's super cool, the last of its kind. The SSD installation took about 5 minutes and now, half an hour later, I'm up and running with SL. The 'book does stay pretty hot on the bottom throughout operation--should I look into touching up the thermal paste? Anyway, I'm very satisfied with my $80 Intel Mac.
If it's hot on the bottom then you need to look into dust, not paste. If thermal paste was bad then the bottom would not be hot, only the CPU itself would be. Check the fans and heatsinks and brush out all dust with a paintbrush and/or toothbrush. It would make a huge difference.
Thanks for the advice, poiihy! That sounds like an easy operation.
BTW all, sorry for derailing the LED discussion
I don't have much to contribute in that area but by all means continue!
Thanks for the advice, poiihy! That sounds like an easy operation.
BTW all, sorry for derailing the LED discussion
can we Derail it onto vintage LightBulbs Im not much of a Fan of LEDs LOL (there are so many LEDs being used in the wrong places and replacing good working lights, a bit like some replacing a 2012 Mac pro with a 2014 Mini Just because the mini is newer and uses less power but it has a lot less grunt then a mac pro)
Dear all,
My awesome new Macbook arrived! It's super cool, the last of its kind. The SSD installation took about 5 minutes and now, half an hour later, I'm up and running with SL. The 'book does stay pretty hot on the bottom throughout operation--should I look into touching up the thermal paste? Anyway, I'm very satisfied with my $80 Intel Mac.
The CPU and GPU on these is right under the keyboard. If you take the top case off(not a super easy operation, but not terrible either) you'll see the heatsinks for these on top of the logic board.
Repasting is never a bad option and is something you should do on an 7+ year old computer, but it won't make the bottom hot. Overall, though, the pre-Unibody Macbooks are the easiest "modern" Apple laptop I've repasted and I'd suggest doing it sooner rather than later(for comparison, my early '08 MBP required effectively a complete strip-down and removal of the logic board, although it was worth it as I've seen across the board temperature decreases of 10-20ºF). My experience with Apple laptops of this generation is that they tended to be rather "liberal" with their thermal paste application at the factory. You may find the old easier to clean of if you have a couple of plastic scrapers at the ready to get rid of the bulk of the old paste before using solvent. Some compressed air will also go a long way-again before using solvent-to clear a lot of the old past out once you've loosened it.
While you have it apart, be sure you also clean the heatsink "fins" well, along with the fans and other air ducts.
Unlike the aluminum Powerbooks/Macbooks/Macbook Pros the plastic Macbooks generally don't get appreciably warm to the touch, so I'd look into soomething.
Ok... I'll start. How old was that lightbulb I sent you a picture of? I forgot...
Mods, can we change the name of this thread to "MacBook thread that is mostly about vintage lightbulbs" and still keep it in the PowerPC forum? Kthx.
Mods, can we change the name of this thread to "MacBook thread that is mostly about vintage lightbulbs" and still keep it in the PowerPC forum? Kthx.
Sounds good to me!
Mods, can we change the name of this thread to "MacBook thread that is mostly about vintage lightbulbs" and still keep it in the PowerPC forum? Kthx.
You know it's your thread, right?
Here's one for Lightbulbfun.
This is a full set of 6 C6-based Christmas lamps in exhaust-tipped envelopes with "hair pin" carbon filaments.
I've had these for probably 10 or 11 years, and did test all(using a single socket and a Lionel train transformer to slowly ramp up the voltage) when I first found them and all worked. Of course, the lacquer is completely gone on several and one has some traces remaining. Also, you can tell that these have been used a fair bit from the amount of carbon deposit on the inside of the envelope. The frosted ones seem to show this worse than the color ones.
I also have the original ceramic sockets with silk-insulated wiring, along with the Mazda screw-base plug. This was originally an 18 lamp strand with three separate circuits-there was a single(heavy ceramic) junction box that broke the line voltage off into three separate strands. From what I've been able to find, the whole set is probably pre-1910. Unfortunately, the ceramic sockets are a mess. I could probably come up with 6 good sockets from the set of 18, but from what I can tell it's virtually impossible to get the sockets apart to repair them. I've rebuilt a bunch of later(plastic 1950s and 60s) C6 strands by piecing together damaged ones(and usually adding a 7th socket to prolong the life of the bulbs), although they're enough trouble to use that I rarely dig them out anymore. I'm pretty carefully with my C6 bulbs-including putting the entire tree on a Variac so that I can ramp up the voltage slowly and run the whole thing at about 100V-but I still managed to lose on or two a year for the couple of years I used them. C7s are-of course-much more available(although not the blazing hot 7W ones) but even a 5W C7 gets a little bit too warm for me. I've mostly relegated C7s(although not the vintage, collectible ones) to outdoor use.
This is a full set of 6 C6-based Christmas lamps in exhaust-tipped envelopes with "hair pin" carbon filaments.
I've had these for probably 10 or 11 years, and did test all(using a single socket and a Lionel train transformer to slowly ramp up the voltage) when I first found them and all worked. Of course, the lacquer is completely gone on several and one has some traces remaining. Also, you can tell that these have been used a fair bit from the amount of carbon deposit on the inside of the envelope. The frosted ones seem to show this worse than the color ones.
I also have the original ceramic sockets with silk-insulated wiring, along with the Mazda screw-base plug. This was originally an 18 lamp strand with three separate circuits-there was a single(heavy ceramic) junction box that broke the line voltage off into three separate strands. From what I've been able to find, the whole set is probably pre-1910. Unfortunately, the ceramic sockets are a mess. I could probably come up with 6 good sockets from the set of 18, but from what I can tell it's virtually impossible to get the sockets apart to repair them. I've rebuilt a bunch of later(plastic 1950s and 60s) C6 strands by piecing together damaged ones(and usually adding a 7th socket to prolong the life of the bulbs), although they're enough trouble to use that I rarely dig them out anymore. I'm pretty carefully with my C6 bulbs-including putting the entire tree on a Variac so that I can ramp up the voltage slowly and run the whole thing at about 100V-but I still managed to lose on or two a year for the couple of years I used them. C7s are-of course-much more available(although not the blazing hot 7W ones) but even a 5W C7 gets a little bit too warm for me. I've mostly relegated C7s(although not the vintage, collectible ones) to outdoor use.
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Thanks for the advice, poiihy! That sounds like an easy operation.
BTW all, sorry for derailing the LED discussion
Derail the off-topic discussion?
No you didn't de-rail it... it was already de-railed and you put it back on the rail.----------
I'm not interested in vintage light bulbs.
What do you mean "there are so many LEDs used in the wrong places and replacing good working lights"? What are the "good working lights" the LEDs replace?
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Repaint the bulbs
lets see... ok Carbon filament c14V bulbs... tungsten Christmas lights came around in the early 1920s... 5 have Dumet lead in wires in the pinch seal (evident by the bright reddish colour they have) so that puts those at post 1913 but pre 1919 due to the piptop, if the others have shiny silver lead in wires in the pinch seal then those are platinum and put the lamps at pre 1913
Gamers bulb was made in roughly 1911 due to the platinum lead in wires and the Heavy filament support at one end its an early tungsten light bulb quite rare indeed
What was the point of the tips on the early light bulbs? Also, would they function without them, say if the tip broke off or something?
I'll give it a stab, even though I'm not LBF.
The tips are called "exhaust tips" and were where the bulb was pumped down during manufacturing. After the bulb was pumped down(I think most bulbs so equipped predated the current practice of an atmospheric pressure inert atmosphere) it was sealed with a hand torch and the bulb parted from the "stem." Breaking the tip would break the vacuum.
A while back, I took a class in scientific glassblowing, and one of the projects I took on was building my own lightbulb. I used cotton thread draped over a steel rod and carbonized in a tube furnace under a nitrogen atmosphere to make filaments(quite a few broke in handling). I don't think this was a procedure a lot different from what Thomas Edison used for his first bulbs.
I actually made a working bulb, but either my voltage was too high or I didn't pull a strong enough vacuum on it(I used a crummy Welch vacuum pump, but did pump overnight) and it only burned for a few hours. If I'd had time, I would have played with it more.
If you take apart the screw base on a modern incandescent, you will actually see a similar structure-it's just hidden.
Also, every vacuum tube I've ever seen has an exhaust tip.
That's pretty interesting. I figured it had something to do with heat or vacuum pressure. When I think of a vacuum tube, I think of abnormally long light bulbs. I saw a Samsung speaker system with vacuum tubes, they were extremely small and I don't recall them having any exhaust tips.
yeah Bun explained it quite well... regarding making your own light bulb how did you make the electrical connections? did you use proper dumet wire that matches the expansion rate of the glass? use the wrong wire and you can crack/have a leak in the glass. also did you make sure to outgas the filament?
Older bulbs had the vacuum hole on the top which caused the tips. Newer bulbs have the vacuum hole in the bottom, hidden by the base, which is why they're perfectly round. You can look closely at a modern bulb and see the pipe that was used to suck out the air and put in argon gas.
You can break the tip and it may or may not work, depending on where you broke. It's very simple... if you break the tip near the top where there is no hollow space, it will still work, but if you break lower down where there is hollow space, you'll break open the bulb and let the gas in (or out if the bulb has argon in it).
You can break the tip and it may or may not work, depending on where you broke. It's very simple... if you break the tip near the top where there is no hollow space, it will still work, but if you break lower down where there is hollow space, you'll break open the bulb and let the gas in (or out if the bulb has argon in it).
Thanks Poiihy. Sorry Bunn, but I had an easier time following along with what Poiihy was saying, but thank you to the 2 of you for clarifying that for me. On a modern light bulb, the bulb wouldn't work if there was a crack in it correct? I'm sure it wouldn't, but I could have sworn PhotonicInduction on YouTube had a light bulb working with broken glass...
Can you link the video where he had a light bulb with broken glass?
I once had a night light bulb, and it hit something and got a little crack in it but didn't break. It was just a little line. When I powered it up, the filament glew (past tense of glow?) dimly for a bit and then burned out.
It's been a while and I don't remember exactly what I used, but I do recall it being a type of wire that would "seal" to the glass.
With that said, I built the whole thing out of borosilicate glass, as we didn't have lime glass in the correct sizes for it to work correctly. It could be that the wire I used wasn't correct for borosilicate.
I would hope that my filament was degassed as well as it could be. Although I said the pump wasn't great, I had measured it with a McLeod gauge and it could pretty reliably pull about .1 torr. A good pump of this type(belt driven rotary vane) should pull .01 or .001 torr, but .1 is still not bad. I would hope that leaving it overnight at that pressure before sealing would have done a decent job of degassing the filament. I do remember how fun it was to seal the tip of the bulb on the pump-as soon as I put the torch up to it, the vacuum caused the tube to collapse much more nicely than you normally get when you turn and pull by hand.
If nothing else, the lightbulb did get me an A in the class
. I've used the skills I learned many times since then, although I've had to make do with a Bunsen burner since apparently hand torches aren't considered a standard piece of lab equipment now. Some people even freak out when you light a Bunsen burner. I even do that infrequently enough now that when I lit one a few weeks ago, I managed to blow out the flame from opening the air vents too fast. I do still like to make my students pull TLC capillaries, as I think that hand-pulled ones work better and are also a fraction of the cost of bought ones.
When this poster called a 2011 MBP too old to run OS X without painful slowdown, and someone who denied that was blamed for running only one application at a time, I immediately thought of your post here
This is an example of someone who thinks any hardware older than what they own is automatically old and slow. It's actually entertaining to see.
I added my 2 cents to that thread...When this poster called a 2011 MBP too old to run OS X without painful slowdown, and someone who denied that was blamed for running only one application at a time, I immediately thought of your post here
This is an example of someone who thinks any hardware older than what they own is automatically old and slow. It's actually entertaining to see.
Since the thread is titled Blackbook for $50, I thought I'd post a couple of pics and some info about the one I picked up tonight for the same price. It's an '06 T7200 model; 2.0ghz C2D processor, with a gig of RAM and 120 gb hard drive. The battery holds a half-hour charge, half of the keyboard is dead, and the optical drive is flaky, but it's in good shape otherwise. It has the typical chips on the top case, and is a bit worn, but the screen is nice and bright and it runs great. I'm currently installing Lion on a 500gb hard drive, using my girlfriend's '09 MBP, that I'm going to swap in, and I've got a couple of spare 1gig sticks of RAM that I'm going to swap the 512s with. This machine will be replacing my DP2.0ghz G5 as my music recording machine, and the G5 is going to be a mule to experiment with Debian Jessie.
