I'm making a custom replacement logic board for the iBook G3 clamshell :)

[SmashCat]

I decided I wanted an iBook that would be usable as a "coffee shop" machine when I'm out and about, so I've designed a new logic board to swap into my G3 clamshell, using the original screen, keyboard, trackpad, power supply etc, but giving it a lot more power, BlueTooth, WiFi etc using a Raspberry Pi CM4 compute module. My first prototype board is in the video below (there are a couple on my channel) - first showing it running dual-screen, the internal 800x600 display + 4K HDMI output Then playing some Dreamcast games via emulation. The 4:3 screen is perfect for console emulation, and BlueTooth means I can also use a console controller.

The current PCB has extra LEDs to help me with debugging and testing, which are showing through the casing but they will not be there in the final design. I'm also designing a keyboard lighting PCB to go under the original keyboard and allow per-key lighting for animations - all white LEDs, but I will be able to change the brightness of each at around 100fps for smooth effects. It will respond to keypresses too, so things like rippling light out from keys as they're pressed etc should look cool. This second PCB will use its own microcontroller to handle the animation so it doesn't use any CPU from the Pi. The trackpad, keyboard, backlight and some other aspects are handled by another microcontroller on the logic board also.

It's been a fun project so far, and I'm looking forward to getting it out into the wild

 

[doctor_dog]

You may not win over the purists with this, but for it's cool to see old hardware repurposed and given new capabilities. You'll certainly turn some heads at the local coffee shop.

I assume you're running Raspbian/Pi OS on this? Are you doing this with off-the-shelf components in a fab-less fashion or did you have to have some custom components made?

Of course the real question is does it have a functioning battery and, if so, is in the original G3 battery and if so did you refurbish/replace the cells yourself? I would imagine your board draws drastically less power then the stock one, I can imagine this thing lasting for a long time.

 

[SmashCat]

You may not win over the purists with this, but for it's cool to see old hardware repurposed and given new capabilities. You'll certainly turn some heads at the local coffee shop.

I assume you're running Raspbian/Pi OS on this? Are you doing this with off-the-shelf components in a fab-less fashion or did you have to have some custom components made?

Of course the real question is does it have a functioning battery and, if so, did you refurbish/replace the cells yourself? I would imagine your board draws drastically less power then the stock one, I can imagine this thing lasting for a long time.

Thanks, yes I designed the new logic board to use everything else from the original iBook - so I have the same connectors, and positions, including for the power and audio daughter-boards. My plan has always been to make it a straight swap that is reversible. So no cut cables etc. There are no off-the-shelf parts apart from the Pi4/CM4. The one thing it doesn't use is the DVD ROM. I didn't really see any need for it. I'll be making a 3D-printed bracket to hold the cover on the case, but it won't be functional.

"purists" can do what they like with their own devices I've always just liked the look of the clamshell case, so wanted one that was usable. It's currently running Pi OS, or RetroPi - I'm making a custom build of RetroPi for this setup, so it can maybe also take advantage of the key lighting to maybe light the keys a game uses, etc. although having BlueTooth controllers makes it a bit obsolete. Having the HDMI out allow it to be used as a retro games console in my lounge too.

I replaced the cells in the battery when I first got the laptop and it charges fine. The new board will still allow charging the same way. You're right, it uses far less power than the original board. I'm estimating up to around 10-11 hours between charges, depending on what it's doing. I limit the backlight brightness to 80% (the same keys are used to adjust) as it just uses a lot more power over that with no real change in brightness. From my tests with a scope, Apple did the same.

I found some interesting things when reverse-engineering the original board. For example, it can only output 18bit colour to the LCD, even though OSX has the option for "millions of colours" - the actual number is around 262,000 The ATi GPU can do 24bit colour, so maybe the marketing people came up with that. My one here was a 466mhz with Firewire, so I'm assuming all of them are the same with the actual colour depth...

Here's the current prototyping logic board - it has extra LEDs and headers for testing, and the USB and HDMI circuitry isn't on there as yet (it's on a separate test board I've made here) - oh, the ugly ribbons at the top were a temporary hack so I could test driving the LCD backlight with my signal generator to test the limits etc. I've reverted it back to normal now.

 

[doctor_dog]

The ATi GPU can do 24bit colour, so maybe the marketing people came up with that. My one here was a 466mhz with Firewire, so I'm assuming all of them are the same with the actual colour depth...

Apple? Letting their Marketing department run away with things? They would never 😄. Lol, I suspect you are correct.

I replaced the cells in the battery when I first got the laptop and it charges fine. The new board will still allow charging the same way. You're right, it uses far less power than the original board. I'm estimating up to around 10-11 hours between charges, depending on what it's doing. I limit the backlight brightness to 80% (the same keys are used to adjust) as it just uses a lot more power over that with no real change in brightness. From my tests with a scope, Apple did the same.

This is fantastic news. If I may inquire, where did you manage to wrangle the new cells? I'd love to do the same, but haven't found a reliable source (I don't really trust eBay for cells anymore). And a G3 clamshell, modded or otherwise, with 10 or 11 hours of battery is just sublime. They don't make keyboards like that anymore, it would be a lovely productivity machine on the go.

I designed the new logic board to use everything else from the original iBook - so I have the same connectors, and positions, including for the power and audio daughter-boards. My plan has always been to make it a straight swap that is reversible. So no cut cables etc. There are no off-the-shelf parts apart from the Pi4/CM4

Sounds like a lot of work, very cool. I would imagine getting the power and battery systems to be electically compatitble was no small feat. For that matter, none of it sounds easy lol. Kudos!

 

[davisdelo]

This is really impressive; quite the accomplishment.

 

[doctor_dog]

Ohhhh you added a picture of the internals!! That is awesome, not what I was expecting (much cleaner).

You thinking about selling these boards?

 

[SmashCat]

Ohhhh you added a picture of the internals!! That is awesome, not what I was expecting (much cleaner).

You thinking about selling these boards?

Heh, thanks, yes it will have some more components once the USB, HDMI circuits, microcontroller for the keyboard lighting and CM4 module socket is added onto the main board, but the general layout is pretty much there. It'll look fairly empty! I haven't really decided if I'd sell them; if there's enough interest I can get a batch made once it's all done! It'd be nice to see another one out in the wild!

For the batteries, you just need rechargeable 18650 cells, they're normally labeled 3.7V, but actually range from 3.4V to 4.2V in use. You can buy them pre-welded into pairs with tabs, the same as the originals. However, putting them into the battery casing means also spot welding the pairs in series. It's not really difficult but you need to be careful you don't overheat them - if you try soldering them you almost certainly will damage them, or even cause a fire - if in doubt find someone with a spot welder, it'll take them a few seconds to do

I'm in the UK and use some battery suppliers over here I trust, but anyone selling official Panasonic or other branded batteries should be ok. I agree never use Ebay for this kind of thing - especially the Chinese vendors - there are WAY too many selling dud parts.

 

[Dronecatcher]

This is a tremedous project - well done and good luck with it!

This would be an ideal distro to run on it for those who wanted some OS9 goodness

 

[SmashCat]

This is a tremedous project - well done and good luck with it!

This would be an ideal distro to run on it for those who wanted some OS9 goodness

Or Amiga, or C64, or... Win95

 

[bigeasy_uk]

@SmashCat
This is amazing work! You should be super proud. You really should sell these, I know I would buy one.

 

[SmashCat]

I've been a bit busy, but just received the keyboard lighting PCB I've designed to slot behind the original keyboard. Here it is with some initial test code. YouTube

 

[uata]

I'm typing from Brazil and my dream is also to make my clamshell usable, I search the entire internet for ways to do this and my two options are to use a smartphone logic board with LOTS of adaptations or a Raspberry board with some adaptations, you actually finished this project successfully and I congratulate you for it, I hope it helps me make my dream come true. I have a question for you, could you use a logic board from the Orange Pi 5 Plus? I'm thinking about changing the screen for a 12.1-inch 1400 x 1050 resolution from the Thinkpad X60/61/62. I would definitely buy your modification projects involving the Ibook G3 Clamshell and I'm looking forward to it. Sorry if I wrote something wrong, I'm using Google translate.

 

[lazd]

@SmashCat I just picked up 2 more Clamshell iBooks, and one of them is definitely slated for this conversion. Please do let me know when you've got a board available, I have a Pi4 here ready to go as well!

I'm also interested in somehow shoehorning a LattePanda Alpha into it, in conjunction with the XGA 1024x768 display from the snow iBook G3... The LattePanda is pricey at around $400, but they can run Mojave, and that would be my dream Clamshell... Modern macOS in the most unique laptop design in the world?! Sign me up! If that sounds interesting to you too, I'd be happy to sponsor you by sending along a LattePanda Alpha. Let me know!

I did the XGA mod already on one of my iBooks, and though it's a little janky right now, 1024x768 gives quite a bit more real estate and would probably pair well with your project. I'm not sure how you're driving the display, but it does drop in and replace the existing 800x600 display with a little OpenFirmware hacking. More info here.

 

[openlyretro]

I'm very excited by all this. I'm a complete newbie when it comes to PCB and internals and such. I have a couple of iBook g3 clamshells that I collected, some work, some need a few fixes. Seeing this adaptation makes me very happy and I am very curious to know more about the details of how this was worked out -- where did you get info on how to communicate with the display, for example, and how did you design an interface to connect to it.. along with the other things like keyboard, speaker, etc -- are there schematics for all the iBook parts?

 

[naujoks]

This is amazing! Is it possible to buy one of those boards off you?

 

[DiTBho]

hi,
great project!
A few questions:

1. how to manage the video signal?
2. have you reverse engineered the LVD protocol of the LCD and implemented an HDMI to LCD adapter?
3. if so, with an FPGA?

 

[DiTBho]

Which is the 800x600pixel LCD part number used by Apple for the ibook-G3 clamshell line?

 

[CooperBox]

I've been a bit busy, but just received the keyboard lighting PCB I've designed to slot behind the original keyboard. Here it is with some initial test code. YouTube

View attachment 2255157

Hi, let me start by saying I'm a Clamshell 'purist' (and have a large collection) and use a 466MHz KeyLime, Indigo or Graphite quite regularly just for the sheer pleasure , but certainly don't baulk at anyone attempting to improve on their performance and am completely won over by what you're doing here. A brilliant project! And if you require sponsoring assistance please let me know. Plus I'm not too far from UK - in mainland Europe.
I agree with what others are saying here, you should really consider selling these, either as complete modified assemblies or in kit form, as I believe there are far more G3 Clamshell fans out there than you realise. Needless to say I would certainly supply a fully serviceable 366MHz or 466MHz Clamshell for modification.
Greatly looking forward to seeing how this project progresses!

 

[Djakes22]

Which is the 800x600pixel LCD part number used by Apple for the ibook-G3 clamshell line?

Hi DiTBho,

The IBM display seems obscure but the other ones have some detailed specs on PanelLook.com, you can use the tool to find some decent brighter xga displays that have wled backlights. Amazon has a few too that are 12.1 in and 1024x768 that would likely fit made by VSDisplay. I’ve ordered one for mine since the cathode backlight is getting very weak on mine.

LCD Cable - IBM, Apple part number922-5087
TFT Panel - IBM 03L5040 (BL P/N:03L5090)

LCD Cable - LG, Apple part number 922-5368
TFT Panel - LG LP121SA (A2QT)

LCD Cable - Samsung, Apple part number 922-4769
TFT Panel - Samsung LT121SU-123

 

[lazd]

Hi DiTBho,

The IBM display seems obscure but the other ones have some detailed specs on PanelLook.com, you can use the tool to find some decent brighter xga displays that have wled backlights. Amazon has a few too that are 12.1 in and 1024x768 that would likely fit made by VSDisplay. I’ve ordered one for mine since the cathode backlight is getting very weak on mine.

LCD Cable - IBM, Apple part number922-5087
TFT Panel - IBM 03L5040 (BL P/N:03L5090)

LCD Cable - LG, Apple part number 922-5368
TFT Panel - LG LP121SA (A2QT)

LCD Cable - Samsung, Apple part number 922-4769
TFT Panel - Samsung LT121SU-123

I just tried 2 different VSDisplay 12.1” from Amazon and neither fit, even decased (#1, #2). Furthermore, they all use the low profile “LG” connector that only 10% of iBooks have (with a different pinout!) so they’re not great for use in a stock iBook.

The XGA panels from the G3 snowbook fit great and are still decently bright, the one that I did LED mod turned out bad, color is terrible, blacks are washed out, and you can see the individual LEDs. The IBM 800x600 display I LED modded looks amazing though!

The blue HDMI to LVDS driver board ($25, is included in one of the VSDisplay kits) can drive the XGA snowbook panels with the right jumper configuration. The VSDisplay black board overdrives it and color is bad.

Some useful measurements:

Viewable Width = 247.65mm
Viewable Height: = 187.325mm
Total inside Width = 277.8125mm
Total inside Height = 207.9625mm

However, if you get close to total inside height, depth becomes a factor. I simply could not fit the VSDisplay 12.1” due to depth and height, even after hacking up the metal framework in the display to accommodate it from a width perspective.

 

[DiTBho]

When I was a student (~2008), my laptop was an Apple Powerbook G3 Pismo, bought second hand. It worked fine as daily GNU/Linux laptop, until the backlight died.

So, I disassembled the LCD pannel, and replaced the little neon tube with one found in a dead Thinkpad laptop.
And it worked =)

 

[lazd]

When I was a student (~2008), my laptop was an Apple Powerbook G3 Pismo, bought second hand. It worked fine as daily GNU/Linux laptop, until the backlight died.

So, I disassembled the LCD pannel, and replaced the little neon tube with one found in a dead Thinkpad laptop.
And it worked =)

Yeah! We still do that today with LED kits. See this thread for details.

 

[Djakes22]

I just tried 2 different VSDisplay 12.1” from Amazon and neither fit, even decased (#1, #2). Furthermore, they all use the low profile “LG” connector that only 10% of iBooks have (with a different pinout!) so they’re not great for use in a stock iBook.

The XGA panels from the G3 snowbook fit great and are still decently bright, the one that I did LED mod turned out bad, color is terrible, blacks are washed out, and you can see the individual LEDs. The IBM 800x600 display I LED modded looks amazing though!

The blue HDMI to LVDS driver board ($25, is included in one of the VSDisplay kits) can drive the XGA snowbook panels with the right jumper configuration. The VSDisplay black board overdrives it and color is bad.

Some useful measurements:

Viewable Width = 247.65mm
Viewable Height: = 187.325mm
Total inside Width = 277.8125mm
Total inside Height = 207.9625mm

However, if you get close to total inside height, depth becomes a factor. I simply could not fit the VSDisplay 12.1” due to depth and height, even after hacking up the metal framework in the display to accommodate it from a width perspective.

Good to know, I will cancel my order

How thick were they approx? Because the specs on #2 said it should be 5mm thick which is the same as the samsung display.

 

[Djakes22]

So I ordered these controller boards for the original 800x600 Samsung display which is what I have in my Key Lime clamshell; I'm going to use it plus a Pi4 compute compute board.

For the keyboard and trackpad Im tinkering with a pico board to try to create USB output from them, so that way the raspberry Pi will be hot swappable in the future; just HDMI and USB connections inside.

 

[lazd]

So I ordered these controller boards for the original 800x600 Samsung display which is what I have in my Key Lime clamshell; I'm going to use it plus a Pi4 compute compute board.

For the keyboard and trackpad Im tinkering with a pico board to try to create USB output from them, so that way the raspberry Pi will be hot swappable in the future; just HDMI and USB connections inside.

That controller board is too large to fit in the iBook, I had one here and it’s unwieldy and the VGA ports are too tall. You should find the low profile board like I linked above and try to see if you can configure the dip switches for 800x600, or do the XGA display from a G3 snowbook.

The keyboard to USB is easily doable, but the TTL serial trackpad is impossible. I spent 2 days reading the Synaptics datasheet and trying to get data out of it, and I got some data, but it was nothing like the datasheet said it would be. 6 byte duplicative packets that contained incomplete data; I was able to determine if it was negative/positive X/Y, but it was missing resolution. Apparently the TTL serial trackpads were special order, so who know what it’s speaking. Someone with a lot of time and an oscilloscope could figure it out, but it’s not 7 bit no parity 2 stop bit 0-5V non-inverted UART-like RS232 like the datasheet says. I tried different baud rates and everything.