iMac G4 refurbishment

[CooperBox]

Towards the end of last year I found another iMac advertised as a 17" 1.25GHz.
These are the G4's now that particulary interest me as they incorporate 3X USB2 ports, as opposed to USB1 on earlier models.
It was only when carrying it from the seller's home to my car that I remarked it seemed rather heavy. On arriving home it became evident why. This was not a 17" but the rather scarce 20" model. Scarce as in insufficient to meet needs, as opposed to the often overused description 'rare' which usually implies very few having been made.
Further to the post I started in Dec with a query about the plastic layer over a CPU, I set about to completely refurbish this iMac and install an SSD.
The following photos and comments may assist others wishing to perform a similar task, especially the few tips given that are not indicated in iFixit, i.e. removal of the heak-sink etc.
These iMacs are a magnet for dust-bunnies, as cooling air is drawn from a series of slots in the bottom housing, and drawn upwards by a fan to exit from holes in the dome of the upper housing. One could imagine that most dust/debris also exits from the upper housing, but in reality this is not the case. On most that I've disassembled I've found a heavy coating of contamination on the logic board, adjacent components and especially over the optical drive/HD assembly. This obviously leads to a drop in cooling efficiency and increased internal component temperatures. The good news is, I've never found a cooling fan heavily contaminated/partially blocked, which is the 'disease' that most laptops suffer from after a few years.

Typical views when detaching the lower housing:



I prefer to completely detach the lower housing to avoid any strain and possible damage to cables and connectors.
However one difficulty I've found in the past is to remove the rubber boot over the (video-socket?) connector. It is firmly attached with double-sided tape so the boot must be carefully prised away with a small screwdriver or craft knife. The connector then can easily be removed as shown below:


Below - general view on the lower housing/logic board. Note the dust accumulation and hard, dried black thermal paste on extremities of the heat-sink at 3 o-clock and 6:30.



Below - Optical drive/HD caddy assembly removed. and fan removed (inner view)


Below - Power supply modules after cleaning. These too had accumulated a lot of debris underneath - like the fan:


Below - Logic board cleaned-up prior to heat-sink removal. The latter is retained by the metal clamp which is easily prised-off from either end. Rh view - Heat-sink removed, and underside cleaned of any thermal-paste remains. CPU also cleaned using isopropyl alcohol swabs.


Further photos and additional comments to follow.......

 

[1042686]

That is the dirtiest imac g4 I have ever seen! That thing was absolutely loaded.

 

[CooperBox]

That is the dirtiest imac g4 I have ever seen! That thing was absolutely loaded.

Believe me I have seen worse G4 iMacs! I'll delve into my black museum photo archive to see if I can retrieve one.

 

[z970]

Thank you for restoring one of these lampshades back to former glory!

 

[defjam]

Needs. More. Dust.

 

[CooperBox]

Below shows the StarTech IDE/SATA adapter which I believe came with the double Molex cable attached. I noted that the jumper on the adapter had already been set to 'master'. This is something to check whilst installing, because if set to slave, I believe the iMac wouldn't correctly boot. Note: OS Leopard was installed to the SSD using firwire from this Mac just prior to this refurbishment.

If the SSD is precisely positioned as shown in the r/h photo and firmly attached with double-sided tape, there will be no interference with the fan or other top housing components. (On YTube there is at least one video where an SSD is placed on top the optical drive carrier, flapping in the breeze without being fastened down - that made me cringe, as it could severely damage the fan blades).


One point of particular note. That StarTech adapter I've linked to, is a near perfect match, as the iMac's original IDE ribbon cable P/No FC80K B4-0A-0411 can still be retained as there is adequate length to reach it's mating connector on the logic board.
Prior to the setup shown above I tried using 2 other IDE/SATA adapters I'd bought for a G4Cube SSD upgrade. On this iMac the offset pin slot in the IDE adapter didn't allow positioning the IDE ribbon cable in a way where the opposite end would reach the logic board connector. See photos below. These IDE/SATA adapters therefore are NOT recommended for this iMac - unless one wishes to make up a longer compatible IDE ribbon cable.
Having said that, I'm sure in the past I've installed a green-coloured adapter to a 17" iMac, so perhaps I got lucky and the connector offset pin slot just happened to match. Although it's a little more expensive, I'd say go for the red StarTech.


Care should be taken when re-installing the SSD/optical drive carrier assy back into the upper housing. There's now a little more room for manouevre without the bulkier original hard drive, and when the assembly feels to be correctly located, the x4 19mm Torx screws can be inserted and partially tightened down. At this point one needs to check that the small locating pins alongside two of the 4 Torx screws are perfectly lined-up. Any necessary adjustment can be made by wiggling the drive carrier assy to suit. When correctly aligned, all 4 Torx screws can be fully tightened down. Shown below one of the 2 locating pins correctly aligned:

I should add that it's possible to tighten down the SSD/optical drive carrier even with those 2 locating pins incorrectly positioned, but the result would be that one couldn't fully insert a CD or DVD disc. So after re-installing the drive carrier assy I always immediately perform a trial insert of a disc. If ok, at this point the EMI shield together with it's original copper tape can be re-fitted.

Below - Ref the logic board/lower housing assy.
After cleaning dried thermal paste residue from the CPU, a small pea-size amount of new paste should be applied (not shown), and the heat-sink re-installed. Note: New 3.6v back-up lithium battery installed.
Then thermal paste should be applied to the heat-sink end blocks as shown - just prior to refitment of the lower housing.


Don't forget to re-install the inner memory stick, (PC-2700 184pin SDRAM on this model, with PC-2700 200pin SO-DIMM at the outer location - below end cover).


iMac completed and booted sucessfully.

 

[CooperBox]

Needs. More. Dust.

Is that an S.O.S? Give me your address and Zip code and I'll send you all I have......

 

[CooperBox]

Thank you for restoring one of these lampshades back to former glory!

I admire the ingenuity of some who are able to perform interesting mods on some hardware. However if I had an unserviceable G4 iMac, I'd certainly do everything to find it a replacement part, and if impossible to find (highly unlikely) I'd keep the remaining serviceable components to eventually benefit others.
Somehow I feel that transforming these iMacs are doing them an injustice. I guess they're still giving pleasure to some but not in the true way they were designed to.
Completely refurbished, with maximum upgrades and all available eyoungren's, foxPEP's, and other's fine tweeks, these are still very capable machines today.

 

[AphoticD]

Excellent work @CooperBox!

Thank you for taking the time to share your refurb. As you might have guessed, I thoroughly enjoy this kind of thing

 

[retta283]

I am thinking about getting a G4 this year. Prices on eBay are so absurd though.

Never seen a Mac that dirty, but I've seen some nightmarish PC towers. AZ is dusty so some of the machines I've worked on were caked. Large clumps in the fans and just on the board.

 

[CooperBox]

I am thinking about getting a G4 this year. Prices on eBay are so absurd though.

Never seen a Mac that dirty, but I've seen some nightmarish PC towers. AZ is dusty so some of the machines I've worked on were caked. Large clumps in the fans and just on the board.

Just for info, what do you call an "absurd" price? Must admit I've never purchased from Ebay as there are better local & cheaper options.

 

[CooperBox]

Excellent work @CooperBox!

Thank you for taking the time to share your refurb. As you might have guessed, I thoroughly enjoy this kind of thing

Thanks for your comments, appreciated!
Before the month is out I'll be completely refurbishing another 17" 1.25GHz G4 iMac that I've retained (i.e. hidden) for possible spare parts - the little lady has found it in the bottom of her clothes closet, and I've been given strict orders to move it! I rarely part with any of my Macs, but when completed I may put a feeler out on the Marketplace-Collectables here to see if there's any interest. The potential problem with these iMacs of course is shipping.

 

[retta283]

Just for info, what do you call an "absurd" price? Must admit I've never purchased from Ebay as there are better local & cheaper options.

Over $100 for any model is absurd to me as I've scored 2010s Macs for less than $50.

What I'm really talking about though is seeing a 15" 2002 G4 going for $180 USD or a 17" for over $200. Local is not really a good option for me, I've only seen a few Macs for sale locally in the 27 years I've lived in AZ.

 

[CooperBox]

Over $100 for any model is absurd to me as I've scored 2010s Macs for less than $50.

What I'm really talking about though is seeing a 15" 2002 G4 going for $180 USD or a 17" for over $200. Local is not really a good option for me, I've only seen a few Macs for sale locally in the 27 years I've lived in AZ.

Interesting. I too have scored for less than $50, but I don't regard over 100USD as particularly absurd either.
Simply because there are so many variables which affect the price of a PPC G4. It does depend of course on one's budget, the scarcity of the model, whether it's in good or bad condition, whether its in fully working order, the demand for that model in a particular country, or most important if it's boxed with original accessories!
To give a few examples:
I personally wouldn't pay much more than 50 USD for a good condition G4 iMac4,2 (the 1st flat panel 700/800MHz model), with no box or accessories, simply because they are USB1 with 15" screen, and I much prefer the later, more powerful, imho far more 'useable' models. Having said that, the same first model with box and all accessories would tempt me to pay 100 USD if not more, as these are getting scarcer in good working condition every year. Many being trashed or converted to lamps, spittoons or containers for the mother-in-law's teeth etc.......
I would (and have paid) far more for a 17" 1.25GHz G4 iMac in good working condition with accessories, simply because I reckon they're worth it. Even the Harman Kardon speakers alone are getting extremely difficult to find in good working condition.
Now regarding the 20" iMac6,3 the first I found 3 years ago I paid over 300euros, and now completely reconditioned I wouldn't want to part with even for the same amount.
I was looking at a local ad only yesterday for a 20" and the seller had added the comment, "I remind you this is the 20". Don't propose 100euros (approx 110USD) as that's the price for a 15inch".
So the bottom line is, it depends on the person's budget and especially the supply & demand. Which goes for most things, not only PPC's.

 

[defjam]

IMO sellers have unrealistic prices for the majority of older systems. While an iMac G4 may be "rare" there doesn't appear to be sufficient demand to justify the asking prices. I see this with any number of older systems. I've followed several auctions for months and when I make an offer the offer is rejected. Then I receive notice from Ebay saying "How badly do you want..." implying the item is still available. If something is listed for months without selling perhaps the seller should seriously consider any offer.

 

[1042686]

$100 via eBay isn’t unrealistic when you factor in shipping for something like that - still that’s too rich for my blood. I score a lot of stuff cheap off CL, letgo etc. I am patient therefore I have little problem waiting.

My most recent MDD purchase was $10 off LG, about a 10 minute drive from my place.

 

[defjam]

$100 via eBay isn’t unrealistic when you factor in shipping for something like that - still that’s too rich for my blood. I score a lot of stuff cheap off CL, letgo etc. I am patient therefore I have little problem waiting.

My most recent MDD purchase was $10 off LG, about a 10 minute drive from my place.

$100 isn't bad if that includes shipping. Typically the asking prices do not. A seller just rejected my $35 offer on 1991 vintage PC that he's had listed for over five months. He has a BIN price of $200 plus $53 to ship it. I finally made the offer as I felt five months should have been plenty of time for it to sell if the market value for the system was close to what the BIN price is.

 

[1042686]

Yeah, that guy is still in love with his computer or the idea that his computer is worth more than it is. And because of that he’ll most likely never sell it. His loss

 

[defjam]

Yeah, that guy is still in love with his computer or the idea that his computer is worth more than it is. And because of that he’ll most likely never sell it. His loss

I think it's one of those bulk sellers (maybe a recycler who sells all kinds of old systems)

 

[1042686]

That’s hard to believe they would not play ball if he’s a big reseller. The entire point of volume sales is to make up for lower gm% via high velocity. He obviously thinks it’s worth more than what a buyer thinks. He’ll lose each time with that mentality.

 

[bobesch]

Interesting. I too have scored for less than $50, but I don't regard over 100USD as particularly absurd either.
Simply because there are so many variables which affect the price of a PPC G4. It does depend of course on one's budget, the scarcity of the model, whether it's in good or bad condition, whether its in fully working order, the demand for that model in a particular country, or most important if it's boxed with original accessories!
To give a few examples:
I personally wouldn't pay much more than 50 USD for a good condition G4 iMac4,2 (the 1st flat panel 700/800MHz model), with no box or accessories, simply because they are USB1 with 15" screen, and I much prefer the later, more powerful, imho far more 'useable' models. Having said that, the same first model with box and all accessories would tempt me to pay 100 USD if not more, as these are getting scarcer in good working condition every year. Many being trashed or converted to lamps, spittoons or containers for the mother-in-law's teeth etc.......
I would (and have paid) far more for a 17" 1.25GHz G4 iMac in good working condition with accessories, simply because I reckon they're worth it. Even the Harman Kardon speakers alone are getting extremely difficult to find in good working condition.
Now regarding the 20" iMac6,3 the first I found 3 years ago I paid over 300euros, and now completely reconditioned I wouldn't want to part with even for the same amount.
I was looking at a local ad only yesterday for a 20" and the seller had added the comment, "I remind you this is the 20". Don't propose 100euros (approx 110USD) as that's the price for a 15inch".
So the bottom line is, it depends on the person's budget and especially the supply & demand. Which goes for most things, not only PPC's.

Oh, I actually drove the long way "from East-Coast to West-Coast" ? in order to pick up a nice 20" 1,25GHz iMac G4 in good but dusty condition for about 100$ & a "Krabbenbrötchen" ...

@CooperBox Thank's for sharing this with us! I really enjoyed reading and I'm looking forward rereading everything again, as soon, as my dust-bowl is going to get serviced ...

 

[defjam]

That’s hard to believe they would not play ball if he’s a big reseller. The entire point of volume sales is to make up for lower gm% via high velocity. He obviously thinks it’s worth more than what a buyer thinks. He’ll lose each time with that mentality.

I don't find it hard to believe at all. Ebay is becoming a cesspool of sellers. The only real value are the individual sellers who are reasonable in their pricing. Unfortunately Ebay has become the flea market where sellers have built their permanent structures and have effectively become independent online sellers using Ebay for marketing. I use Ebay for the hard to find, must have items. For everything else I go elsewhere. Many sellers feel the same. The 8-bit guy did a video on why he no longer sells (or should I say sold since I don't believe he sells things any longer) on Ebay. It was an interesting watch.

 

[davidg4781]

I bought a used one several years ago and was amazed at how clean it was inside. It looks like the seller may have cleaned it up first.

And unfortunately they crushed the BT and WiFi antenna cables when putting it back together. I bought a replacement WiFi but crushed that on accident, too.

 

[CooperBox]

I bought a used one several years ago and was amazed at how clean it was inside. It looks like the seller may have cleaned it up first.

And unfortunately they crushed the BT and WiFi antenna cables when putting it back together. I bought a replacement WiFi but crushed that on accident, too.

Yes, your comment - which I've highlighted in blue - goes to confirm how easily some of these cables can be damaged when re-assembling the top and bottom housings.
A few additional tips worth mentioning:
Ensure that at least 2 of the cables are passed through the white plastic retainer before the housings are refitted, see photos below.

The white cable retainer can be observed to the right and just below the black 'floating' interface connector (this connector found on the earlier USB1 models). From memory the white cable retainer is practically identical on all models.

Below I found just 2 cables placed through the retainer.


And detail of the cable lock feature (shown unlatched). The white cable retainer has a locking feature which is felt when the leg is pushed hard onto the base.


On the earlier model shown, reassembly of the bottom/top housings needs particular care, as due to the floating connector which gives some resistance, it's usually not possible to mate the housings to fully closure by hand. The 4 retaining bolts need tightening very slowly, carefully, and gradually with opposite pairs at a time. Some resistance will be felt which is normal as the male/female connector blocks make contact, but any significant increase in resistance is a sign that one or more cables are trapped.
With the USB2 models the 'floating' connector is not present, and it's possible to mate the housings to fully closure by hand prior to installing and tightening the four T15 retaining bolts. Care is still required however.

These are great models to work on, especially if a time limit for completion is not set, take your time!
Bottom line is, enjoy your iMac G4 refurbishment.

 

[davidg4781]

This reminds me I need to order a replacement cable before they’re gone.

Or give up the iMac. Right now it’s sitting in a closet. I moved in to a smaller home shortly after I bought it and have no place or need for it right now.