iMac G4 refurbishment

[1042686]

This reminds me I need to order a replacement cable before they’re gone.

Or give up the iMac. Right now it’s sitting in a closet. I moved in to a smaller home shortly after I bought it and have no place or need for it right now.

Whaddaya mean? Everybody’s got a kitchen table. Plop it down in the middle & run a background of your wife’s favorite flower bouquet.


A winner for sure!

 

[defjam]

This reminds me I need to order a replacement cable before they’re gone.

Or give up the iMac. Right now it’s sitting in a closet. I moved in to a smaller home shortly after I bought it and have no place or need for it right now.

Sadly there comes a time when you realize, space or not, having so many systems sitting around doesn't make sense. I recently thinned out my computer collection by "rehoming" all but one of my G5s, all of my PowerBooks, a couple of Mac Books (older models), and some of my earlier Mac Pro's. While I didn't need the space and they weren't in the way I just decided after many years of barely any use (which is really just a short way of saying I powered them on just for the sake of it) I decided to thin out my collection and find them new homes where they may see more regular use.

 

[davidg4781]

Sadly there comes a time when you realize, space or not, having so many systems sitting around doesn't make sense. I recently thinned out my computer collection by "rehoming" all but one of my G5s, all of my PowerBooks, a couple of Mac Books (older models), and some of my earlier Mac Pro's. While I didn't need the space and they weren't in the way I just decided after many years of barely any use (which is really just a short way of saying I powered them on just for the sake of it) I decided to thin out my collection and find them new homes where they may see more regular use.

I’ve thought of that! I live in south Texas and it sure if they’ll find a good home down here. I bought the G4 in Houston and the G5 in Austin, I think.

I do have a project planned for the G5. I just need to get it done.

 

[theirongiant]

Hello blast from the past. I just picked up a second-hand iMac G4 myself: a 20" widescreen model that had not been opened since the day it came home from the Apple Store with its first owner.

I was only planning to upgrade the internal RAM module, but once I opened it and saw how dirty it was, I had to do a deep clean.

At this stage of disassembly, I've unplugged everything except the TDMS display connector. It has a protective plastic cover, which is stuck to the PCB with a thick strip of some double-sided material (possibly 3M VHB?), which had gotten so gummy it was very difficult to remove.

I had to use an X-Acto knife and a nylon spudger to carefully lift it. There aren't any good photos of this process or the underlying connector online, so I figured I should document it for posterity.

BE VERY CAREFUL with the X-Acto knife. Go slow, and make your cuts as close to parallel with the board as possible so you don't gouge the PCB, and only insert the knife about 1/8". You won't be able to cut the tape much on the other side, so concentrate on the one side and lift it up.

Due to the lack of references images and removal technique on Apple Service Source and iFixit — the OP's post has the only known reference to the level of difficulty involved — it took me a solid 15 minutes to figure out how to remove this thing surgically without causing any damage.

 

[bobesch]

Hello blast from the past. I just picked up a second-hand iMac G4 myself: a 20" widescreen model that had not been opened since the day it came home from the Apple Store with its first owner.

I was only planning to upgrade the internal RAM module, but once I opened it and saw how dirty it was, I had to do a deep clean.

At this stage of disassembly, I've unplugged everything except the TDMS display connector. It has a protective plastic cover, which is stuck to the PCB with a thick strip of some double-sided material (possibly 3M VHB?), which had gotten so gummy it was very difficult to remove.

I had to use an X-Acto knife and a nylon spudger to carefully lift it. There aren't any good photos of this process or the underlying connector online, so I figured I should document it for posterity.

BE VERY CAREFUL with the X-Acto knife. Go slow, and make your cuts as close to parallel with the board as possible so you don't gouge the PCB, and only insert the knife about 1/8". You won't be able to cut the tape much on the other side, so concentrate on the one side and lift it up.

Due to the lack of references images and removal technique on Apple Service Source and iFixit — the OP's post has the only known reference to the level of difficulty involved — it took me a solid 15 minutes to figure out how to remove this thing surgically without causing any damage.

Great job and good luck!

So this is how poorly protected electronic-equipment will look like,
when exposed to Mars-environment for about a couple of months ...?

 

[CooperBox]

Hello blast from the past. I just picked up a second-hand iMac G4 myself: a 20" widescreen model that had not been opened since the day it came home from the Apple Store with its first owner.

I was only planning to upgrade the internal RAM module, but once I opened it and saw how dirty it was, I had to do a deep clean.

At this stage of disassembly, I've unplugged everything except the TDMS display connector. It has a protective plastic cover, which is stuck to the PCB with a thick strip of some double-sided material (possibly 3M VHB?), which had gotten so gummy it was very difficult to remove.

I had to use an X-Acto knife and a nylon spudger to carefully lift it. There aren't any good photos of this process or the underlying connector online, so I figured I should document it for posterity.

BE VERY CAREFUL with the X-Acto knife. Go slow, and make your cuts as close to parallel with the board as possible so you don't gouge the PCB, and only insert the knife about 1/8". You won't be able to cut the tape much on the other side, so concentrate on the one side and lift it up.

Due to the lack of references images and removal technique on Apple Service Source and iFixit — the OP's post has the only known reference to the level of difficulty involved — it took me a solid 15 minutes to figure out how to remove this thing surgically without causing any damage.

Hi, good post and very helpful photos! I'm always pleased to see new refurbishers of G4 iMac's, and in your case having found a 20" it's the best of the series.
Back in 2017 I too ran into the problem of removing that connector boot (link HERE), and after the help offered in the thread succeeded in it's removal by careful use of a craft knife. So you did well to renew & highlight the problem to others.
Incidently I hadn't seen posts #15 & #16 of the above link at the time, so didn't get a chance to answer that the 'white stuff' referred to on the PSU circuitry is in fact RTV silicone adhesive that helps prevent component vibration and excess movement that can add to the chances of broken solder joints.
When you've completed the refurbishment, could you please post some photos. Do you plan to add an ssd or not? They don't significantly improve the boot time but certainly do enhance performance in general - especially with the addition of Sorbet Leopard.

 

[Black Grape]

Hello blast from the past. I just picked up a second-hand iMac G4 myself: a 20" widescreen model that had not been opened since the day it came home from the Apple Store with its first owner.

I was only planning to upgrade the internal RAM module, but once I opened it and saw how dirty it was, I had to do a deep clean.

At this stage of disassembly, I've unplugged everything except the TDMS display connector. It has a protective plastic cover, which is stuck to the PCB with a thick strip of some double-sided material (possibly 3M VHB?), which had gotten so gummy it was very difficult to remove.

I had to use an X-Acto knife and a nylon spudger to carefully lift it. There aren't any good photos of this process or the underlying connector online, so I figured I should document it for posterity.

BE VERY CAREFUL with the X-Acto knife. Go slow, and make your cuts as close to parallel with the board as possible so you don't gouge the PCB, and only insert the knife about 1/8". You won't be able to cut the tape much on the other side, so concentrate on the one side and lift it up.

Due to the lack of references images and removal technique on Apple Service Source and iFixit — the OP's post has the only known reference to the level of difficulty involved — it took me a solid 15 minutes to figure out how to remove this thing surgically without causing any damage.

Thank you so much for taking the time to document this. I balked at removing this connector on my 17" iMac, becuase it was stuck so firmly to the motherboard.