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Gutwrench

Suspended
Jan 2, 2011
4,603
10,530
When they can get their lawn mowed for $35 by two guys in like 15 minutes with high speed zero-turn mowers it seems hard to justify spending $10k+ on another tractor that will take quite a bit longer.

If I could get 4 acres mowed for $35 ? and happy with the quality I‘d pay it. That’s just not possible here.

I was paying $50 week for one property (not huge but way < 4 acres) and the problem was the poor cut quality.

Zero-turn mowers are a mowing company’s dream but a nightmare for the customer if they don’t know how to operate it.

My biggest complaint was tearing the turf on turns and destroying turf and exposing tree roots as they spun around them at warp speed. I fired them about mid summer or so.

I spent $2,800 and very pleased. I haven’t heard anyone pleased with the snow blowing equipment. The attachment for mine would be $1500 just for the unit, then extra for weights and chains. Then with the added hassle of attaching it’s not worth it in my case.

I bought an Areins two stage four years ago but used a service for the last three. The service is $1000 a season, unlimited plows. It’s not worth it since I rarely leave home now in summer ...and even less in the winter.
 

velocityg4

macrumors 604
Original poster
Dec 19, 2004
7,330
4,719
Georgia
I’ve put this off long enough. Anyways, I’m just going over the mods I made not full detail of assembly and disassembly. Once you’ve made all the mods. Assembly and disassembly is nearly identical to the original transaxle.



Tools Used

  • Right Angle Grinder
  • Vice
  • Propane Torch
  • Snap Ring Pliers
  • Drill and Tap
  • Hammer
  • Punches
  • Metal File


Overview.jpg
There are a few key differences between the original transmission and the Huqvarna K57

  1. Reverse Kill Switch Position
  2. Drive Lever Direction
  3. Screw Tap
  4. Pulley size and order
  5. Axle Length


1. Reverse Kill Switch Position

This was the easiest to deal with. I don’t have any use for it.I just removed it. Problem solved.



2. Drive Lever Direction

A bit of a pain. The lever is mounted with two pins. One inside another. I don’t know the technical names for these pins. I’ll just call them wedge pins. I had to remove the inner pin with a 5/32 punch and the outer pin with a 3/16 punch. Then I flipped and rotated the drive lever to face down and out to clear the transaxle housing.

This caused a secondary problem. The drive pedal linkage now rubbed against the drive belts for the mower deck. I placed this bar in a vice. Heated it with a torch and bent it where it contacted the deck belt. To make it clear the deck.

2-1.jpg 2-2.jpg 2-3.jpg

3. Screw Tap

While they placed a mount hole in the new transaxle. It wasn’t threaded. Which is needed for mounting one of the frame mount bars. The original JD screw is metric but the hardware store didn’t have a metric tap in the size I needed. Thankfully a 5/16”-18NC is nearly identical. So I got the 5/16”-18NC Tap, 17/64 drill bit (which I ended up not needing) and a matching 5/16 bolt to replace the metric one. You’ll also need a tap handle if you don’t have one.

Tapping was easy as the block is aluminum. I practiced on some scrap aluminum first. Just a word of warning. This is aluminum. When tapping or finally mounting the frame mount. Don’t over tighten. Those threads will strip. I didn’t have this issue as I was careful.


3-1.jpg 3-2.jpg
4. Pulley size and order.

The K57R came with a large diameter pulley and the pulley/fan order was reversed. Thankfully the shaft size and keying is the same. I just moved over the JD pulley and placed them in the correct order. You’ll need snap ring pliers

4-1.jpg

5. Axle Length

The K57R has a shorter axle. To correct for this. I had to shorten the spacers between the transaxle and rims. This caused a secondary issue. The left wheel now rubs against the deck height adjustment lever.

To fix the rubbing issue. I cut a notch out of the tube of the lever to allow it to sit closer to the frame with a right angle grinder. I also shortened the keeper pin and drilled a new hole for the cotter pin. To make centering your drill bit easier I used the angle grinder to notch it. Finally I filed the edges to round them off.

5-1.jpg 5-2.jpg
_________________________________________

Now that all is said and done. The only annoyance is it is more difficult to raise and lower the deck. It’s pretty minor but takes a bit of work to go higher than 3.5 inches.

The other option is to crack open both transaxles. You should then be able to switch the direction of the drive internally. Also the axles are supposed to be the same size and tooth arrangement internally. So, I could have swapped the axles too. I didn’t care for opening a new transaxle and replacing the costly specialty oil. Nor was I comfortable with messing with the interior.

This would have saved doing the external mods. Except for tapping the mount hole and removing the kill switch. I’d have even been able to move over the JD kill switch. I still prefer the external mods. As they are less risky.
 

kevinmcf

macrumors newbie
Nov 1, 2020
13
3
Another K46 nightmare.
My K46A JD 180LTR. I gave my trans to a repair shop (stopped moving). He had for a year, gave it back to me in a basket! It took me about 2 weeks to put back together ordering missing parts rusted thrust bearings, special washer's needed on the reduction shaft & on & on... I resurfaced the center case even bought a small hone on the pump and motor. Reassembled and worked just OK. Now it just loses some power when hot. After some research I noticed a spring was missing under the pump #32 Part# 1724290SM. Since I had to replace the trust bearings and steel spacers I would have remembered that spring. I am assuming spring is the reason its losing power now. If I'm pulling apart again would like to upgrade with the charge pump, while searching for new center case, shaft and charge pump costing over $300, I found a new K57R # Part 1724290SM Husqvarna Part #437814. $269!!!

Any way of knowing whether I can swap the pump motor center case shaft etc... Into my K46A, I could even replace pump and motor? For less then what half the parts are going to cost!

Would love to go to a K66 but the center discharge chute is very tight and was told by Tuff Torq K46 cannot be upgraded with K66 parts:(
 

Glideslope

macrumors G3
Dec 7, 2007
8,011
5,466
The Adirondacks.
I’ve put this off long enough. Anyways, I’m just going over the mods I made not full detail of assembly and disassembly. Once you’ve made all the mods. Assembly and disassembly is nearly identical to the original transaxle.



Tools Used

  • Right Angle Grinder
  • Vice
  • Propane Torch
  • Snap Ring Pliers
  • Drill and Tap
  • Hammer
  • Punches
  • Metal File


View attachment 961467
There are a few key differences between the original transmission and the Huqvarna K57

  1. Reverse Kill Switch Position
  2. Drive Lever Direction
  3. Screw Tap
  4. Pulley size and order
  5. Axle Length


1. Reverse Kill Switch Position

This was the easiest to deal with. I don’t have any use for it.I just removed it. Problem solved.



2. Drive Lever Direction

A bit of a pain. The lever is mounted with two pins. One inside another. I don’t know the technical names for these pins. I’ll just call them wedge pins. I had to remove the inner pin with a 5/32 punch and the outer pin with a 3/16 punch. Then I flipped and rotated the drive lever to face down and out to clear the transaxle housing.

This caused a secondary problem. The drive pedal linkage now rubbed against the drive belts for the mower deck. I placed this bar in a vice. Heated it with a torch and bent it where it contacted the deck belt. To make it clear the deck.

View attachment 961459 View attachment 961460 View attachment 961462

3. Screw Tap

While they placed a mount hole in the new transaxle. It wasn’t threaded. Which is needed for mounting one of the frame mount bars. The original JD screw is metric but the hardware store didn’t have a metric tap in the size I needed. Thankfully a 5/16”-18NC is nearly identical. So I got the 5/16”-18NC Tap, 17/64 drill bit (which I ended up not needing) and a matching 5/16 bolt to replace the metric one. You’ll also need a tap handle if you don’t have one.

Tapping was easy as the block is aluminum. I practiced on some scrap aluminum first. Just a word of warning. This is aluminum. When tapping or finally mounting the frame mount. Don’t over tighten. Those threads will strip. I didn’t have this issue as I was careful.


View attachment 961461 View attachment 961463
4. Pulley size and order.

The K57R came with a large diameter pulley and the pulley/fan order was reversed. Thankfully the shaft size and keying is the same. I just moved over the JD pulley and placed them in the correct order. You’ll need snap ring pliers

View attachment 961464

5. Axle Length

The K57R has a shorter axle. To correct for this. I had to shorten the spacers between the transaxle and rims. This caused a secondary issue. The left wheel now rubs against the deck height adjustment lever.

To fix the rubbing issue. I cut a notch out of the tube of the lever to allow it to sit closer to the frame with a right angle grinder. I also shortened the keeper pin and drilled a new hole for the cotter pin. To make centering your drill bit easier I used the angle grinder to notch it. Finally I filed the edges to round them off.

View attachment 961465 View attachment 961466
_________________________________________

Now that all is said and done. The only annoyance is it is more difficult to raise and lower the deck. It’s pretty minor but takes a bit of work to go higher than 3.5 inches.

The other option is to crack open both transaxles. You should then be able to switch the direction of the drive internally. Also the axles are supposed to be the same size and tooth arrangement internally. So, I could have swapped the axles too. I didn’t care for opening a new transaxle and replacing the costly specialty oil. Nor was I comfortable with messing with the interior.

This would have saved doing the external mods. Except for tapping the mount hole and removing the kill switch. I’d have even been able to move over the JD kill switch. I still prefer the external mods. As they are less risky.

Can’t believe I missed this back in September. ?

Great project. You nailed it. ?
 
Last edited:

Glideslope

macrumors G3
Dec 7, 2007
8,011
5,466
The Adirondacks.
Wow. And to think I procrastinate over changing the oil.

I’m the opposite this year. The darn Sugar Maples and Oaks in my yard (50+ yr olds) are taking forever to drop their leaves this fall. I might have to winterize the Green Machine before I can mulch everything. That makes spring cleanup allot more time consuming.

Once it starts snowing that will be it. ?
 

kevinmcf

macrumors newbie
Nov 1, 2020
13
3
That was a terrific write up, I was going to buy the K57 (cheap $269) and see if I can swap pump motor center case, shaft.... the center case alone for the k46 is $300. the pump, motor, shaft, charge pump are all the same #'s the center case on K46 upgrade (I've read elsewhere) is 1A646099530 or (540)
the K57R center case # is 1A64609953.
Charge pump #'s are different but may be because TT sells as kit?
here are the #'s buying individual TT parts (from person doing k57 upgrade) and comparable parts K57R serial #7A646084020. (sold on Surplus)
K57R parts as listed on TT's site
Item #/ Part Number on diagram / Quantity / Part Number Description/ Cost
1. 1 1 1A646088840 Pump Shaft (K57A) 25.47
33 k57R 1A646088840
2. 100 1 187Q0026010 Charge Pump Case Kit 8.35
K57R 187Q0026010
3. 102 1 1A646088350 Inner Rotor 4.61
K57R 1A646031100 ROTER KIT? (need to call TT and ask what comes with kit)
4. 101 1 1A646088360 Outer Rotor 4.82
5. 103 2 22351030018 Roll Pin 3.0 x 18 0.21
K57R 22351030018
6. 97 1 1A646088450 Charge Spring 2.68
K57R 1A646088450
7. 96 1 1A646088410 Pin 2.5 x 9.8 0.34
K57R 1A646088410
8. 83 2 1A646025300 Spline Collar 1.34
K57R 1A646025300
9. 26 1 1A646088211 Filter 8.64
10. 87 1 19215489090 Snap Ring 0.26
K57R 19215489090
11. 37 1 187K0099750 Motor Thrust Bearing 28.08
K57R 187Q0099760 ?
12. 201 1 1A646099530 K57R Repair Kit 373.81
K57R 1A646099531 ?
13. 47 1 1A646029010 Magnet Holder 1.83
14. 8 2 19216324360 Magnet 2.94
Since I am doing this on a JD LTR180 has a center rear discharge chute clearence is tight above fan I figure I can use a spacer if necessary to shim the trans if height is a problem.
ltr 180.jpg
 

kevinmcf

macrumors newbie
Nov 1, 2020
13
3
just found this great pics of K57 upgrade
 

velocityg4

macrumors 604
Original poster
Dec 19, 2004
7,330
4,719
Georgia
That was a terrific write up, I was going to buy the K57 (cheap $269) and see if I can swap pump motor center case, shaft.... the center case alone for the k46 is $300. the pump, motor, shaft, charge pump are all the same #'s the center case on K46 upgrade (I've read elsewhere) is 1A646099530 or (540)
the K57R center case # is 1A64609953.
Charge pump #'s are different but may be because TT sells as kit?
here are the #'s buying individual TT parts (from person doing k57 upgrade) and comparable parts K57R serial #7A646084020. (sold on Surplus)
K57R parts as listed on TT's site
Item #/ Part Number on diagram / Quantity / Part Number Description/ Cost
1. 1 1 1A646088840 Pump Shaft (K57A) 25.47
33 k57R 1A646088840
2. 100 1 187Q0026010 Charge Pump Case Kit 8.35
K57R 187Q0026010
3. 102 1 1A646088350 Inner Rotor 4.61
K57R 1A646031100 ROTER KIT? (need to call TT and ask what comes with kit)
4. 101 1 1A646088360 Outer Rotor 4.82
5. 103 2 22351030018 Roll Pin 3.0 x 18 0.21
K57R 22351030018
6. 97 1 1A646088450 Charge Spring 2.68
K57R 1A646088450
7. 96 1 1A646088410 Pin 2.5 x 9.8 0.34
K57R 1A646088410
8. 83 2 1A646025300 Spline Collar 1.34
K57R 1A646025300
9. 26 1 1A646088211 Filter 8.64
10. 87 1 19215489090 Snap Ring 0.26
K57R 19215489090
11. 37 1 187K0099750 Motor Thrust Bearing 28.08
K57R 187Q0099760 ?
12. 201 1 1A646099530 K57R Repair Kit 373.81
K57R 1A646099531 ?
13. 47 1 1A646029010 Magnet Holder 1.83
14. 8 2 19216324360 Magnet 2.94
Since I am doing this on a JD LTR180 has a center rear discharge chute clearence is tight above fan I figure I can use a spacer if necessary to shim the trans if height is a problem. View attachment 977747

Why swap all those parts from the K57R? If you're going to open it up. You should just need to transfer your axles from the K46 and there's a wedge shaped block you'd need to rotate 180 degrees to correct the forward/reverse being reversed. As far as I can tell the axles should be interchangeable since so many other parts are and they are the same diameter. If your model has short axles like the Husqvarna. You won't even need to swap the axles.

Everything else is external. Reusing the JD Pulley, drive lever and reverse kill switch. Plus tapping the one mount hole. You shouldn't need to do any of the mods I did. I did those because I didn't want to take it apart.

Physically the mounts and clearances are the same. The casing is a bit bulkier. But the position of the mount holes, levers, pulleys and such are the same.

Although I'd skip the kill switch. It's annoying and it physically limits how far you may depress the reverse pedal. Limiting reverse speed.
 

kevinmcf

macrumors newbie
Nov 1, 2020
13
3
Why swap all those parts from the K57R? If you're going to open it up. You should just need to transfer your axles from the K46 and there's a wedge shaped block you'd need to rotate 180 degrees to correct the forward/reverse being reversed. As far as I can tell the axles should be interchangeable since so many other parts are and they are the same diameter. If your model has short axles like the Husqvarna. You won't even need to swap the axles.

Everything else is external. Reusing the JD Pulley, drive lever and reverse kill switch. Plus tapping the one mount hole. You shouldn't need to do any of the mods I did. I did those because I didn't want to take it apart.

Physically the mounts and clearances are the same. The casing is a bit bulkier. But the position of the mount holes, levers, pulleys and such are the same.

Although I'd skip the kill switch. It's annoying and it physically limits how far you may depress the reverse pedal. Limiting reverse speed.
Are you saying mods not necessary on JD? any movement of top pulley may require a different belt? my 5th bolt is on left side and not threaded just a tang on frame and nut and bolt not threaded. its located under the neutral lever.
From reading the previous post needing to cut frame (not clear what needs to be trimmed), issues w/ raising deck? Looking at the comparisons the pulley slightly shifted to one side and forward I'm concerned w/ clearances. I gave my trans last year to a shop to rebuild after a year, he gave it back in a basket. Took me 2 weeks to put it together mostly because of ordering missing parts, rusted thrust bearings etc... when I first mounted trans (wedge also installed backwards) the pics showed fan on top of pulley, I drove it w/o deck and center chute (pedals were reversed), but worked OK, even w/ missing spring under pump (missed this when reassembling). When I mounted deck & chute, fan disintegrated hitting the chute (center discharge)!! Another week later new fan, mounted pulley on top, also R & R trans to reversed wedge, but now pulling weight (have a large leaf bag), started to slip again. Thought I screwed it Up. I just got spring in (that sits under pump against center case, Pain in the F****n A**^), I was planning on installing this weekend. I have not order K57R yet undecided how to move forward not 100% sure center case will fit my K46 or if my center case is NFG (after resurfacing)?? The LTR takes about 2.5 hours to mount chute, deck and rear plate that attaches bagging assembly, a real pain. So I'll probably order the K57, and take that on over winter and maybe try mounting K57R. Thanks for the advice. If anything it was by doing a parts comparison K46A to K57R I noticed spring was missing under pump, as I replaced the thrust bearings I would have remembered that spring! Since I resurfaced the center case and small hone on pump and motor, and it started to slip again thought I did something wrong!
Kevin
 
Last edited:

kevinmcf

macrumors newbie
Nov 1, 2020
13
3
Do you know part #'s for the steel gear set? when I order the k58R if i'm going to try and just swap axels I read the steel gers are much tighter tolerances then the powder coat gears
 

velocityg4

macrumors 604
Original poster
Dec 19, 2004
7,330
4,719
Georgia
Are you saying mods not necessary on JD? any movement of top pulley may require a different belt? my 5th bolt is on left side and not threaded just a tang on frame and nut and bolt not threaded. its located under the neutral lever.
From reading the previous post needing to cut frame (not clear what needs to be trimmed), issues w/ raising deck? Looking at the comparisons the pulley slightly shifted to one side and forward I'm concerned w/ clearances. I gave my trans last year to a shop to rebuild after a year, he gave it back in a basket. Took me 2 weeks to put it together mostly because of ordering missing parts, rusted thrust bearings etc... when I first mounted trans (wedge also installed backwards) the pics showed fan on top of pulley, I drove it w/o deck and center chute (pedals were reversed), but worked OK, even w/ missing spring under pump (missed this when reassembling). When I mounted deck & chute, fan disintegrated hitting the chute (center discharge)!! Another week later new fan, mounted pulley on top, also R & R trans to reversed wedge, but now pulling weight (have a large leaf bag), started to slip again. Thought I screwed it Up. I just got spring in (that sits under pump against center case, Pain in the F****n A**^), I was planning on installing this weekend. I have not order K57R yet undecided how to move forward not 100% sure center case will fit my K46 or if my center case is NFG (after resurfacing)?? The LTR takes about 2.5 hours to mount chute, deck and rear plate that attaches bagging assembly, a real pain. So I'll probably order the K57, and take that on over winter and maybe try mounting K57R. Thanks for the advice. If anything it was by doing a parts comparison K46A to K57R I noticed spring was missing under pump, as I replaced the thrust bearings I would have remembered that spring! Since I resurfaced the center case and small hone on pump and motor, and it started to slip again thought I did something wrong!
Kevin

Like I briefly glossed over in my post. I only had to mod the JD because I did not open up the transaxles. If I swapped out the original longer axles and reversed the wedge no mods to the JD would have been needed. As everything lined up.

Since I was stuck with the shorter axles and flipped the drive lever. That brought the tires closer and lowered the pedal linkage. Requiring the JD mods.

If you change the axles and reverse the wedge. You should just need to configure the transaxle like your original. Put on your fan and pulley in the JD order. Put on your kill switch. Connect your linkages. There should be two left mount brackets. One has the drop through bolt. The other screws in and needs to be tapped.

Do you know part #'s for the steel gear set? when I order the k58R if i'm going to try and just swap axels I read the steel gers are much tighter tolerances then the powder coat gears

Don't know. Hope that K58 is a typo. That's a heavier model with thicker axles.
 

kevinmcf

macrumors newbie
Nov 1, 2020
13
3
yes k58 was a typo, So your saying the K57R has the same 5th bolt hole also? And the height of transmission are the same? If so then that would be the easiest thing to do. Does the K57R have drain holes? Seen a few threads on external filter, have you seen an easy way to do this? Then my only conceren is a longer drive belt if necessary) as pully location slightly different. I was originally strongly looking to do a K58 or K66, before I found the K57R deal @$269. Wish I would have seen this deal and this thread, before I started to reassemble my K46 and spent 3 weeks, over $150 in misc missing parts. I would have had this done and running 3 weeks ago. I'm going to order trans, but in meantime will probably R&R Trans install spring under pump to get my tractor running this weekend, and if all goes well will install the K57R over winter and sell my k46 on ebay.
Thanks again for the info
 

velocityg4

macrumors 604
Original poster
Dec 19, 2004
7,330
4,719
Georgia
I used my original drive belt. The pulley lined up fine when I used the original JD pulley.

It appears to have a drain plug.

Here is another angle comparing the two. My K57 has all the same bolt holes as my K46 that I'm aware of. So, I'd expect it also has the 5th bolt hole you are referring to.

IMG_20200801_1437402.jpg

That's just my setup though. There's lots of variation in the Tuff Torq line depending on what the mower manufacturer wants. Your K46 may be different than my K46. If it has some customization for the grass clipping attachment. Before I did any mods I installed the K57R to check for alignment.
 

Glideslope

macrumors G3
Dec 7, 2007
8,011
5,466
The Adirondacks.
I used my original drive belt. The pulley lined up fine when I used the original JD pulley.

It appears to have a drain plug.

Here is another angle comparing the two. My K57 has all the same bolt holes as my K46 that I'm aware of. So, I'd expect it also has the 5th bolt hole you are referring to.

View attachment 1022787

That's just my setup though. There's lots of variation in the Tuff Torq line depending on what the mower manufacturer wants. Your K46 may be different than my K46. If it has some customization for the grass clipping attachment. Before I did any mods I installed the K57R to check for alignment.

Critical point right there. Not all K46, K57,58,66 are always identical ( though commonality is high.) Careful research is a must.
 

rockdude

macrumors newbie
Nov 15, 2020
1
0
So, if I'm reading this correctly, a person can buy this K57R transaxle on surplus center for less than $300, and take parts (gears, bearings, pump, motor, center case, etc.) out of it and use them to replace worn parts in a K46? It sounds like a way to get all your rebuild parts at about a 50% discount from buying them individually from Tuff Torq - you just have to take a few bolts off to get access to them. Is that correct?
 

kevinmcf

macrumors newbie
Nov 1, 2020
13
3
the other way around, If you look at the trans side by side the pulley is off by about 1 Inch. I am unsure where this inch comes from? different center case? offset in upper case mounting of center case? The K57 has same mounts, same positioning of levers and has short axles. If you have the short axles, then K57 just bolts right in. I noticed in a previous thread that on his tractor the 5th mounting bolt was threaded (he had to tap trans case), my 5th bolt uses a nut and bolt (not threaded), the JD LTR's. On any trans you need to check rotation controled by wedge that sits behind motor. And if you need to swap axle, very easy 2 u clips slide axle out, new axle slide in replace clips.
Almost forgot unsure what oil is used in K57R?? so I would change oil after 30-50 hrs (season) with the recomended 10-50/ 20-50 syn oil.
 

kevinmcf

macrumors newbie
Nov 1, 2020
13
3
The k66, k58 are noticeably different then the k46 and k57 and are not generally interchangeable as a whole and most parts are not interchangeable bigger pump, motor, center case, larger diameter axles so gears are different and on .... As I wanted to put a k66 (much better and HD trans then K57 or K46) in my JD but too many mods with levers, controling arms, and mounting, never mind having to buy new 1" axle rims and tires and is noticably a bigger trans may not even fit. The K57R is only slightly better then the K46 its the same trans (same mounting, control arms, pulley height and mounting. Only real difference is the charge pump. Charge pump would be like adding an oil pump to a motor maintains better pressure for the trans pump and motor so gives better lubricity and helps maintaing good pressure at pump. a K57 trans is maybe 10 or 15% better then the K46. The K66 or K58 is twice the tranny of K46 or K57. Its more of a true lifetime transmission. the K46's are throwaways! Don't know of any dealers who would rebuild them, they just replace entire units and charge about $2000:( For my JD anyway a $4,500 tractor I expected more!!!!
 

rob87

macrumors newbie
Nov 19, 2020
5
2
I just did the K46 (actually a T40J) to K57R upgrade on my JD D110. Thank you velocityg4 for the inspiration! I picked up the K57R from Surplus Center at ~$270 + ~$50 shipping, shipped next day and got here fast and safe. The housings are identical. I opted to crack open the new unit, flip the wedge and replace the axles with my old axles - absolutely no problems there - axle mounts are identical. I also ordered some new axle seals - I highly recommend this since the teeth on the end of the axle mess with the seal/spring when you pull the axle out through them. I took apart more than I probably needed to as I was looking to replace the input drive shaft to avoid belt alignment issues since the retaining ring that holds up the pulley and fan is 3/4" lower to the housing, but found that I did not need to, since the k57R "stack" includes toothed two 3/8" high nuts as spacers that I can simply slip them on to reorder to match my T40J belt alignment exactly (see pic). These nuts are also great for driving the shaft with a socket on your drill to bleed the air out of the unit when refilling with oil. The k57R is pre-threaded for the bolt that extends up from the housing to the side of the pulley that keeps the belt from coming off the pulley. I tapped the mounting hole as velocityg4 did, and replaced the drive pulley with my original pulley to avoid any belt length issues and ensure the same input shaft drive speed. I also opted to replace the exterior forward/reverse and brake levers with my originals to avoid any pedal issues, and replaced the reverse kill switch assembly with my original one so it is on the correct side of the lever. I used Permatex UltraBlack for the new gasket and replaced the oil with Mobil1 5w-50. Note the k57R takes a bit less oil than the T40J - probably due to the extra pump hardware in the unit. The hardest/most time consuming parts of the task were scraping all the old gasket off of the housing and getting the roll pins out of the exterior forward/reverse and brake levers.
drive shaft.jpg


I put the mod k57R back in and mowed my lawn. Everything works fine, and it does seem a bit faster (see below) especially in reverse. Most importantly, it has no problem going still going as slow as I want it to. (Well, most most importantly the transmission still works after I opened it up and messed around with it :)).

According to TuffTorq, my old T40J (#1A646098280) delivers 176.4nm torque with a max input shaft speed of 3,000rpm and a 28.04:1 reduction ratio. The new k57R "hopper" (#7A646084020) I replaced it with delivers 231nm of torque with a max input shaft speed of 3,600rpm and a 23.02:1 reduction ratio. I'm assuming this is about a 30% increase in torque and a 20% increase in output speed. Since I am using my existing old pulley, there would be an additional 20% increase in output speed based on the difference in pulley sizes. The slower drive rpm would erase 20% of the speed increase, yielding a net 20% speed increase. I'm not sure how the slower drive rpm might affect the torque output vs. greater pull on the engine, etc. I assume the extra hardware in the k57R provides some incremental output, since everything else is the same (they have the same pump and motor rebuild kits) with perhaps the exception of some of the gearing which would yield the difference in reduction ratios (I didn't count the teeth when I had both the units open).

My requirement, and reason I'm replacing my T40J and opting for a (arguably) beefier transmission is *not* mowing my 1.5 acre flat lawn in the suburbs, not even that it is less $ than a k46 rebuild kit, but what I do with it in the winter. I haul it out to my cabin in the mountains and use it to clear snow off my steep, long driveway with the John Deere 42" snowblower attachment (which I love, is built like a tank, and is a different story). I snowblow it instead of having it plowed because we use it is as a sledding run, so I need to control the snow I leave on the driveway and leave clean "walls" of snow on each side to keep sledders in bounds. I have chains for the tractor, the OEM weights, and then another ~200lbs of sandbags I lash to it to maintain traction. Add another 190lbs for me and the fact that my garage is downhill from the road (requiring me to clear the initial path through the snow on an uphill run through typically 6-12+" of snow at a time), it creates a use case way beyond the design spec of a k46 (much less a T40J). While it is typically below freezing out, heat is still the enemy - I can through clumps of snow on it and it not only steams, the snow sizzles and dances. I typically change my transmission oil every year, and have seen water in my oil (from water getting in through the breather cap?) in the past so I don't throw snow on it too cool it off anymore...

This brings me to my next mod, which some (including me) may find disturbing (reader discretion advised ;)). I bought a 30 pack of 20x20x10mm heat sinks on Amazon for $9, got some JB weld, and got busy. My placement of the heat sinks was driven by flat spots on the housing, clearance for moving levers/arms and access to housing bolts, proximity to the internal pump, motor and oil sump, and avoiding gravity based pile up of clippings and debris around heat sinks/housing fins, and no up-facing heatsinks that debris will settle into. My first thought was this mod was that even with mounting side and down facing, the heat sinks will be a magnet for grass clippings and debris which could actually insulate instead of dissipate heat. But remember my use case, I'm not going to run into heat issues mowing my flat lawn, it is when I'm working in snow. A long highway speed trailer haul out to the cabin and an once over with some compressed air once a year should get the fins cleaned up for the hard work in the snow. It looks funny, but the math is compelling, ~128 square inches of additional heat dissipating surface area. Still, probably not a mod for everyone.
heat sinks.jpg


All in all, I would absolutely do the k57R replacement and mods again. It is less $ than the rebuild kit, and you have to crack open the transmission anyway to do a rebuild. I looked into the Husq 348XD over the summer - it has the k66 with locking differential and a twin cylinder engine which all would be wonderful, however their snowblower attachment appears to have significant issues and I don't know what it would take in terms of mods to get my JD attachment to work with it. I've got about 160 hrs on my JD D110, so I'm going to run with that as long as I can. Wish me luck!
 
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Glideslope

macrumors G3
Dec 7, 2007
8,011
5,466
The Adirondacks.
I'm new to the macrumors forum, and wanted to share my story about my lawn tractor transmission too... I just did the K46 (actually a T40J) to K57R upgrade on my JD D110. Thank you velocityg4 for the inspiration! I picked up the K57R from Surplus Center at ~$270 + ~$50 shipping, shipped next day and got here fast and safe. The housings are identical. I opted to crack open the new unit, flip the wedge and replace the axles with my old axles - absolutely no problems there - axle mounts are identical. I also ordered some new axle seals - I highly recommend this since the teeth on the end of the axle mess with the seal/spring when you pull the axle out through them. I took apart more than I probably needed to as I was looking to replace the input drive shaft to avoid belt alignment, but found that I did not need to, since the k57R "stack" includes toothed two bolts as spacers that I can simply slip them on to reorder to match my T40J belt alignment exactly (see pic). These bolts are also great for driving the shaft with a socket on your drill to bleed the air out of the unit when refilling with oil. I tapped the mounting hole as velocityg4 did, and replaced the drive pulley with my original pulley. I also opted to replace the exterior forward/reverse and brake levers with my originals to avoid any pedal issues. I used Permatex UltraBlack for the new gasket and replaced the oil with Mobil1 5w-50. Note the k57R takes a bit less oil than the T40J - probably due to the extra pump hardware in the unit. The hardest/most time consuming parts of the task were scraping all the old gasket off of the housing and getting the roll pins out of the exterior forward/reverse and brake levers.
View attachment 1674167

I put the mod k57R back in and mowed my lawn. Everything works fine, and it does seem a bit faster (see below) especially in reverse. Most importantly, it has no problem going still going as slow as I want it to. (Well, most most importantly the transmission still works after I opened it up and messed around with it :)).

According to TuffTorq, my old T40J delivers 176.4nm torque with a max input shaft speed of 3,000rpm and a 28.04:1 reduction ratio. The k57R "hopper" I picked up delivers 231nm of torque with a max input shaft speed of 3,600rpm and a 23.02:1 reduction ratio. I'm assuming this is about a 30% increase in torque and a 20% increase in output speed. Since I am using my existing old pulley, there would be an additional 20% increase in output speed based on the difference in pulley sizes. The slower drive rpm would erase 20% of the speed increase, yielding a net 20% speed increase. I'm not sure how the slower drive rpm might affect the torque output vs. greater pull on the engine, etc. I assume the extra hardware in the k57R provides some incremental output, since everything else is the same (they have the same pump and motor rebuild kits) with perhaps the exception of some of the gearing which would yield the difference in reduction ratios (I didn't count the teeth when I had both the units open).

My requirement, and reason I'm replacing my T40J and opting for a (arguably) beefier transmission is *not* mowing my 1.5 acre flat lawn in the suburbs, not even that it is less $ than a k46 rebuild kit, but what I do with it in the winter. I haul it out to my cabin in the mountains and use it to clear snow off my steep, long driveway with the John Deere 42" snowblower attachment (which I love, is built like a tank, and is a different story). I snowblow it instead of having it plowed because we use it is as a sledding run, so I need to control the snow I leave on the driveway and leave clean "walls" of snow on each side to keep sledders in bounds. I have chains for the tractor, the OEM weights, and then another ~200lbs of sandbags I lash to it to maintain traction. Add another 190lbs for me and the fact that my garage is downhill from the road (requiring me to clear the initial path through the snow on an uphill run through typically 6-12+" of snow at a time), it creates a use case way beyond the design spec of a k46 (much less a T40J). While it is typically below freezing out, heat is still the enemy - I can through clumps of snow on it and it not only steams, the snow sizzles and dances. I typically change my transmission oil every year, and have seen water in my oil (from water getting in through the breather cap?) in the past so I don't do this anymore...

This brings me to my next mod, which some (including me) may find disturbing (reader discretion advised ;)). I bought a 30 pack of 20x20x10mm heat sinks on Amazon for $9, got some JB weld, and got busy. My placement of the heat sinks was driven by flat spots on the housing, clearance for moving levers/arms and access to housing bolts, proximity to the internal pump, motor and oil sump, and avoiding gravity based pile up of clippings and debris around heat sinks/housing fins, and no up-facing heatsinks that debris will settle into. My first thought was this mod was that even with mounting side and down facing, the heat sinks will be a magnet for grass clippings and debris which could actually insulate instead of dissipate heat. But remember my use case, I'm not going to run into heat issues mowing my flat lawn, it is when I'm working in snow. A long highway speed trailer haul out to the cabin and an once over with some compressed air once a year should get the fins cleaned up for the hard work in the snow. It looks funny, but the math is compelling, ~128 square inches of additional heat dissipating surface area. Still, probably not a mod for everyone.
View attachment 1674168

All in all, I would absolutely do the k57R replacement and mods again. It is less $ than the rebuild kit, and you have to crack open the transmission anyway to do a rebuild. I looked into the Husq 348XD over the summer - it has the k66 with locking differential and a twin cylinder engine which all would be wonderful, however their snowblower attachment appears to have significant issues and I don't know what it would take in terms of mods to get my JD attachment to work with it. I've got about 160 hrs on my JD D110, so I'm going to run with that as long as I can. Wish me luck!

Best of Luck. ?
 
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rob87

macrumors newbie
Nov 19, 2020
5
2
the other way around, If you look at the trans side by side the pulley is off by about 1 Inch. I am unsure where this inch comes from? different center case? offset in upper case mounting of center case? The K57 has same mounts, same positioning of levers and has short axles. If you have the short axles, then K57 just bolts right in. I noticed in a previous thread that on his tractor the 5th mounting bolt was threaded (he had to tap trans case), my 5th bolt uses a nut and bolt (not threaded), the JD LTR's. On any trans you need to check rotation controled by wedge that sits behind motor. And if you need to swap axle, very easy 2 u clips slide axle out, new axle slide in replace clips.
Almost forgot unsure what oil is used in K57R?? so I would change oil after 30-50 hrs (season) with the recomended 10-50/ 20-50 syn oil.
The input drive shaft extends about 2.5" out of the top of the housing on both the k57R and the k46 (T40J in my case). The cause of the "1 inch" pulley misalignment is two fold: 1) the retaining ring that holds the pulley and fan up is 3/4" lower (closer to the housing) on the k57R input drive shaft, and 2) the order that the pulley and fan are slipped onto the input drive shaft as shipped from the factory. The k57R includes two "nuts" that slip on the input drive shaft that are 3/8" high each that space the pulley and fan on the drive shaft. Fortunately, the nuts, pulley, and fan can be slipped on in any order, so you can put the nuts on first to provide 3/4" space up the drive shaft for the pulley and retaining ring (see my pic in the post above). These nuts are also great for driving the input shaft with a socket/power drill to bleed air out of the unit when refilling with oil. FYI - The k57R housing is also threaded for the bolt that extends up to the side of the pulley to prevent the belt from coming off the pulley (installed on the k46/T40J). I used Mobil1 5w-50.
 
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rob87

macrumors newbie
Nov 19, 2020
5
2
So, if I'm reading this correctly, a person can buy this K57R transaxle on surplus center for less than $300, and take parts (gears, bearings, pump, motor, center case, etc.) out of it and use them to replace worn parts in a K46? It sounds like a way to get all your rebuild parts at about a 50% discount from buying them individually from Tuff Torq - you just have to take a few bolts off to get access to them. Is that correct?
yes - that should work, but you get a whole new, slightly better transmission by simply replacing the axles with your old ones (and new axle seals), along with the other mods in my post above: re flipping the internal wedge that the motor bearing rides on, threading the hole for the mounting bolt, replacing the forward/reverse and brake levers, and re-ordering the spacing nuts, fan and your original pulley.
 
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kevinmcf

macrumors newbie
Nov 1, 2020
13
3
Mine came w/o drain plug since I had drilled them in my K46A and I had to remove bottom pan to replace axels, I used my K46 pan. My levers were all the same did not have to swap the forward/ reverse lever or the motor wedge thin side up on mine, and I had to make a new neutral arm. when I get home tonight will post pics of inner trans. the top case is different as mine had the plastic reservoir, the K57R has a larger hump. The top case is different on the K46A so I'm not sure if shaft for pulley/ fan will line up? I would think it's easier to just bolt up the K57R then swap everything out.
 
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rob87

macrumors newbie
Nov 19, 2020
5
2
Ah... my T40J case was identical to the k57R. Did you try measuring and comparing the distances from the top of the input drive shaft to something the same on both like the axle? That should give you an idea of any potential line up issues.

An external reservoir and drain plug would be awesome. If the rebuild kits for the k57R and your k46A are the same, you may be able to gut the new parts from the k57 and put them in your old case. I know easier said than done with gasket scraping, new axle seals, new oil, etc...
 

kevinmcf

macrumors newbie
Nov 1, 2020
13
3
I already swapped the axles, was planning on installing it tomorrow, next year when I have more time and better weather, I plan on removing trans, and cutting a hole in fender adding the reservoir externally. where it sits now is not accessible. its under seat and under center chute, need to R&R deck put tractor on blocks unbolt and slide chute out, and even then to add oil would be a mess. adding oil with drain plugs in, would create an air block and take forever to change, and would have to go through process of bleeding air and risk low oil issues trying to fill. you do not have access to both sides of transfer case like the oil fill port under fan. What I would do with external reservoir, is fill tank simultaneously dropping drain plug the vacuum created should suck the new oil in.
 
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