There is no standard setting for everything, thats the problem. It always depends on the content.
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Apple TV 4K does not support 24.000fps playback
- Thread starter ActionableMango
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That or any multiple of 24. For example, if your TV does 120Hz and is fed a 24fps signal, then there shouldn’t be shudder. It probably also takes a 24fps signal in its settings.
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24 frames per second so it matches the film speed. The display should match a multiple of 24. The device has to output it though. Shudder basically comes from excessive frame rate. 30Hz is equivalent to 30fps. If your content is 24fps, then it’s too fast for film. There is basically frame stuffing taking place.
From what I know, did you explicitly enable deep color mode for thr HDMI input that ATV 4k has been connected to ? Did you also use a “premium” HDMI cable ? See:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...2735865-settings-options-2016-lg-oled-b6.html
Yup, I've enabled "HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color" on all four ports, and tried different ports. Same result. I don't think the cable is the issue, but I have ordered one of the Apple "recommended" ultra HDMI cables, just in case. It just strikes me as odd that, with the LG, which clearly does 4K and both HDR10 and Dolby Vision, I still have no options on the ATV for anything 4K.
It likely is the cable. If it's not HDMI premium certified, it likely won't send HDR. As far the Apple cable, it's not HDMI premium certified. If it doesn't have this logo, then not certified. So the Apple cable may or may not work. Plus it's way overpriced. Monoprice has Premium certified cables for $5.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024021&p_id=24187&seq=1&format=2
Thanks, Packers1958. I've ordered one of the cables you recommend and will cancel the Apple one.
I have about 6 of the cables that Packers1958 recommended. Two of which are 10’ long, and the others are 6’ long. I can tell u first hand that these are awesome, so yeah I’m pretty sure it’s the cable.
Well, I now have two cables on the way! One (overpriced) from Apple that I couldn't cancel, and one from monoprice. So between the two, I'm hoping I'll figure this out. Thanks for the help!
Hmmmm.
Are you sure you got an "Apple TV 4K", and not an "Apple TV 4"?
That screen looks just like the one from my ATV 4.
The resolution settings are split over 2 screens on the ATV 4K, and look a little different.
With the names being so similar, it would be an easy mistake to make.
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One tell tale sign is the 4 comes in a Black box while the 4K comes in a white box with 4K on the sides.
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This happens to me on whenever my kid triple taps of the Siri Remote.
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Didn’t see the correction in your original post. Can you update this with the new info so member can find it easier?
You only want to watch programming at its native frame rate. That said, it is WAY more complicated than simply setting your Apple TV 4K to 24Hz.
Whatever you choose it is going to be a compromise and that is if and only if the TV respects the input frequency the way you think it does. For example, what if your TV screen is still refreshing at 60 or 120Hz as some do? Do you truly know what is happening on the TV end? Do you even trust the software running on your TV to do the right thing? Probably not, and configuring a TV to not perform additional image processing/color correction/motion compensation can require time and research.
Using 60Hz is a compromise, but it is a well understood compromise. For one, the user interface, apps, games and TV programming will look great at this frame rate. The one thing that might not be ideal is film, most often recorded at 24FPS (but not always), which will of course introduce things like judder because of 3:2 pull down. However, this problem isn't new and it isn't really addressed simply by setting your output to 24Hz. Even if we assume some films are best shown at 24FPS and your TV will refresh at a multiple of that frequency you're compromising every other use of the box.
The best thing for everyone is to wait for HDMI 2.1 and variable refresh rate TVs so everything just works. Until that time 60Hz is the best compromise and will provide the best overall experience.
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Sorry palmerc, I own several Tv´s, two projectors and non of them has any problems with 24p inputs. I dont know what kind of hardware you use, but ok. Automatic refresh rate just has to be supported by the device, like my old and new Samsung Blu ray Players do.
By the way, ever played 25hz/50hz content with 60hz on the Apple TV. Its a mess. How can you say 60hz is the best compromise? Its totally not. It always depends on the content.
By the way, ever played 25hz/50hz content with 60hz on the Apple TV. Its a mess. How can you say 60hz is the best compromise? Its totally not. It always depends on the content.
Of course it isn't going to be ideal. You want frame rate to match content, but there is no currently available ideal solution for a broad range of equipment or customers.
Here is a thread about Chromecast and 50Hz material.
https://github.com/ashley1982/google-cast-sdk/issues/374
This isn't just an Apple TV problem, this is an industry problem where there are no solutions, only compromises.
As I've said, setting your TV to 24p might solve the frame rate issue for certain content, but it completely hurts all other content including the user interface itself. The real solution is coming, but it is still another year or two out.
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Apple recommends the Belkin HDMI cable on Apple.com for $29.95. Worked and the length was great.
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Thats right, there is no great solution on a lot of hardware, but it would be very easy to implement the automatic frame rate switching option. Thats what we are talking about.
And of course there are some devices, which switch to the correct framerate automatically:
- Blu ray Players, specially the Samsung Players (Blu rays, Netflix, Amazon Video etc.)
- Nvidia Shield (on some Apps)
- Dune HD Players
- Zappiti Player
- etc.
The best device when it comes to framerate switching is in my opinion the Samsung UHD M9500. It switches always to the correct framerate. No matter if its 23,976/24/50/60 content. But the interface and the number of apps is compared to the Apple TV not so good.
And of course there are some devices, which switch to the correct framerate automatically:
- Blu ray Players, specially the Samsung Players (Blu rays, Netflix, Amazon Video etc.)
- Nvidia Shield (on some Apps)
- Dune HD Players
- Zappiti Player
- etc.
The best device when it comes to framerate switching is in my opinion the Samsung UHD M9500. It switches always to the correct framerate. No matter if its 23,976/24/50/60 content. But the interface and the number of apps is compared to the Apple TV not so good.
All of these 'frame rate switching options' are really hard resetting the HDMI bus which causes the TV to go through a re-sync process. Most TVs do not handle this well and what happens when you reset can include flickering screen, source input changing, power-off, or resync failure depending on the device. It can be an ugly experience and that is why it doesn't do it. If you try changing the frequency manually on your TV Apple prompts you with, "Did it work?" and counts down to reset back to the last setting. HDMI 2.1 aims to solve this problem in an elegant way for everyone.
I think you are losing sight of Apple's target audience for this product. It isn't for the home theatre tweaker that relishes the thought of tweaking every last parameter to their satisfaction. This is a mass market 4K solution that will please anyone that is happy with their iPhone.
That doesn't make sense though. They *are* catering more for the tweakers out there, by having the option to change every aspect of the display - if it was a truly consumerist, mass-market targeted device, they would *just* have auto-switching, like the Roku players.
I really wonder how old your hardware is. I never have any syncing issues when the framerate is changing. The display goes black for maybe a 1-2 seconds , thats it.
I prefer to have a black screen when the framerate is changing, then having the Apple TV playing the videos in the not native framerate, which causes judder. When I watch this none "home theatre tweaker" forum, I see a lot of people complaining about those issues.
If I want a cheap, non perfect, mass market device, I could buy some fire tv´s for less then half the price.
You are definitely not able to change every aspect of the display. The level of configurability is actually limited to the values that Apple cannot determine through HDMI.
Example - Chroma 4:2:0 vs 4:2:2. If you read their dialog it says 4:2:0 was chosen for compatibility with most TVs, but 4:2:2 would provide better image quality. That is because, they don't know if your TV can handle it unless you tell it.
Auto-switching today is guaranteed to do sub-optimal things.
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I consider a black screen for 1-2 seconds a terrible user experience and that is the best user experience you can hope for changing frequency in the land of TV. Other TVs put up "Searching for Signal" boxes on the screen. Ewww. Worse - start a movie 1-2 seconds, decide not the movie I wanted back 1-2 seconds, start new film 1-2 seconds. It’s an absolutely maddening user experience.
Judder is and and will be a part of the common user experience for a bit longer. Most people don't notice this phenomenon. It bugs me too.
The Apple TV is a really great box, that does what people expect across all media types and apps, is available worldwide, and is reasonably priced. It does not solve all of the technical challenges facing TVs.
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Try to get your hands on the very old Samsung H6500 Blu ray or the new Samsung UHD M9500 and tell me if you see any problems when it comes to framerate switching. I haven't any on my devices. Judder doesn't need to be a part of the common user experience these days.
As I said, try 50hz content with your recommended 60hz setting. Is it really a better a experience to have jerky video then a black screen for a second when you start the video? Well, two people, two opinions I guess. We should leave it like that.