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The Home Improvement Q&A Thread
- Thread starter puma1552
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Well we ended up selling our other house about a month after we finished the kitchen, which was the last room in the house that we upgraded. Well actually it was a total rebuild since we took the kitchen down to the studs. So we have not started on our new house.
So far we have done the following:
Living room - new floors and paint (need to do one door to a hallway which we are going to have someone do since I am not good at hanging doors!)
Hallway from living room - new floors and paint, still need to do two bi-folding doors.
Game room - new floors and paint along with a new sliding glass door. Still need to finish off one wall with a chair/bar rail along with a new door leading into the room. Again, going to have someone hang this.
Breeze way, new paint
Hallway from breeze way to service porch/laundry room - new paint
My office - new floors and paint also put in new sliding mirrors, but went with a frosted look which came out really good. The door leading in, will have a similar style frosted glass look. Need a new door installed, which we are having done and also a new sliding glass door.
Up next:
Wife's office - which will be new paint, new floors, new door and window that goes out to her patio. This one will be a little expensive given it is a large door and windows. But they are wood and termite riden so they need to be replaced. Her walls also have a funky texture and need to basically be sanded down and re-textured. Going to be doing all the leg work on the walls and will then bring someone in to texture and/or mud. She will also need a new door installed along with sliding closet doors.
Master bedroom and bath - new floors and paint, along with gutting the masterbath down to the studs. This is a little off given the amount of money we are looking at. New sliding glass doors will also be installed leading out to the master patio.
Jack and Jill bathroom - going to actually redo this one also. Going to turn it into the laundry room since all of the bedrooms are up stairs. The bathroom has a single shower (which will be where the washer and dry go) along with a full tube and shower combo. Two sinks, and a toilet. Given this is a complete remodel, going to wait on this one also.
Kitchen - going to do all new cabinets and counter tops. The kitchen layout is actually really good.
Living room - new paint and update the fireplace and wet bar. We are also going to put in a new stair railing and redo the stairs themselves along with both landings.
Yup lots to do!
So far we have done the following:
Living room - new floors and paint (need to do one door to a hallway which we are going to have someone do since I am not good at hanging doors!)
Hallway from living room - new floors and paint, still need to do two bi-folding doors.
Game room - new floors and paint along with a new sliding glass door. Still need to finish off one wall with a chair/bar rail along with a new door leading into the room. Again, going to have someone hang this.
Breeze way, new paint
Hallway from breeze way to service porch/laundry room - new paint
My office - new floors and paint also put in new sliding mirrors, but went with a frosted look which came out really good. The door leading in, will have a similar style frosted glass look. Need a new door installed, which we are having done and also a new sliding glass door.
Up next:
Wife's office - which will be new paint, new floors, new door and window that goes out to her patio. This one will be a little expensive given it is a large door and windows. But they are wood and termite riden so they need to be replaced. Her walls also have a funky texture and need to basically be sanded down and re-textured. Going to be doing all the leg work on the walls and will then bring someone in to texture and/or mud. She will also need a new door installed along with sliding closet doors.
Master bedroom and bath - new floors and paint, along with gutting the masterbath down to the studs. This is a little off given the amount of money we are looking at. New sliding glass doors will also be installed leading out to the master patio.
Jack and Jill bathroom - going to actually redo this one also. Going to turn it into the laundry room since all of the bedrooms are up stairs. The bathroom has a single shower (which will be where the washer and dry go) along with a full tube and shower combo. Two sinks, and a toilet. Given this is a complete remodel, going to wait on this one also.
Kitchen - going to do all new cabinets and counter tops. The kitchen layout is actually really good.
Living room - new paint and update the fireplace and wet bar. We are also going to put in a new stair railing and redo the stairs themselves along with both landings.
Yup lots to do!
I used to have that kind of energy. Did a kitchen remodel in 2012. Don't know if I could repeat that today. I'm curious if you do this with your primary residence, or if you are flipping houses?
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Primary residence. However we have done it on a few of our apartments also. We actually used those as our test bed for some of the remodeling items. But mainly our house. Laying the floor and painting, while time consuming, is actually pretty easy once you get going.
Anyone here experts on yard sprinkler systems?
I've installed two sprinkler systems previously so I'm familiar, however...
In the house I've lived in for 5 years, there is a sprinkler system in both the front and back yard. Unfortunately in the front yard, they have both the yard heads and the bed heads wired to come on at the same time. All of these valves are electronic and are activated with a controller that's in my laundry room.
My plan is to separate them (bed head from yard heads) so I took a close look in the control box out in the yard. Whoever did this really made a mess of it. I've not confirmed this yet, but it appears that they used a master valve to control the back yard, and they have two other controllers that both come on for the front yard for both the yard and the beds, and they may have installed two valves, but then decided to mix and match the piping to both the beds and the yard. And the pipes look like spaghetti, what a mess and then they buried most of it in dirt despite being in a control box.
Since these items could be ten-20 years old, I'm going to replace all of the valves and straighten out the pipes which are 3/4" PVC.
Ok, my question is this. In the past I've used both a master valve and individual zone valves. For those not familiar, when you turn a a zone on, a master valve also opens to allow the flow of water to the individual zone. Seeing that they used a master valve as a zone valve, I'm wondering if I really need to install a master valve that functions as a master valve, as in what good purpose does a master valve serve? Or just install 3 zone valves each controlling a zone? Thoughts?
I may post a picture to document the mess, lol.
I've installed two sprinkler systems previously so I'm familiar, however...
In the house I've lived in for 5 years, there is a sprinkler system in both the front and back yard. Unfortunately in the front yard, they have both the yard heads and the bed heads wired to come on at the same time. All of these valves are electronic and are activated with a controller that's in my laundry room.
My plan is to separate them (bed head from yard heads) so I took a close look in the control box out in the yard. Whoever did this really made a mess of it. I've not confirmed this yet, but it appears that they used a master valve to control the back yard, and they have two other controllers that both come on for the front yard for both the yard and the beds, and they may have installed two valves, but then decided to mix and match the piping to both the beds and the yard. And the pipes look like spaghetti, what a mess and then they buried most of it in dirt despite being in a control box.
Since these items could be ten-20 years old, I'm going to replace all of the valves and straighten out the pipes which are 3/4" PVC.
Ok, my question is this. In the past I've used both a master valve and individual zone valves. For those not familiar, when you turn a a zone on, a master valve also opens to allow the flow of water to the individual zone. Seeing that they used a master valve as a zone valve, I'm wondering if I really need to install a master valve that functions as a master valve, as in what good purpose does a master valve serve? Or just install 3 zone valves each controlling a zone? Thoughts?
I may post a picture to document the mess, lol.
Currently doing up my partners/our bedroom at their parents house. They live near a whole load of family members so we thought it'd be good to make a 'home from home' type bedroom thing. It's a complete attic conversion, were plastering the ceiling and walls on Monday, flooring on Tuesday, electrics on Wednesday, go for a drink on Thursday...
I might post photos as we do it. (We recently renovated another house as a hobby project so we know a little of what to do)
I might post photos as we do it. (We recently renovated another house as a hobby project so we know a little of what to do)
Is there insulation up in the rafters next to the roof? I'm not sure how important this is, but when making the attic a living space, my impression is that the insulation if any is removed from under the floor of the attic making the attic part of the living space of the house.
The answer: A master valve shuts off water to all zones, in case one of the individual zone valves fails to close. The minus, this could mask problems with individual zone valves although you might notice it's running when it should not. The big plus if you are away, with a zone valve stuck open, your water won't run for the duration. I'll probably add a master valve to my system.
I am being vexed by my water system. Here is an update and what I propose to do. Looking for advice or comments from anyone with experience in this area. 
I found a do it yoursel forum and also posted there, something along these lines:
I have installed 3 sprinkler systems in the homes I've lived in so I am familiar how they should be installed. For the current house I live in, the sprinkler system was already installed. I don't know if it was the previous owner or the contractor who is responsible for this abomination of a system. A quick run down:
I'm considering digging out in the yard to disconnect the sprinkler water pipes from the house water line. Repair that and then next to the house where the water comes in, split the sprinkler water system off here. In this way I can run it up the wall high enough so that the anti-syphon valve is 6" above the heads in the yard. Plus I can install a blow out valve for the winter, but usually it's so warm here in the winter, I've not blown out the sprinkler in the 5 years we've lived here.
I found a do it yoursel forum and also posted there, something along these lines:I have installed 3 sprinkler systems in the homes I've lived in so I am familiar how they should be installed. For the current house I live in, the sprinkler system was already installed. I don't know if it was the previous owner or the contractor who is responsible for this abomination of a system. A quick run down:
- There is no master valve.
- There is no anti-syphon valve.
- There are three valves. One looks like it should be the master valve but it runs a zone. The other two zones are wired to come on together and despite a perfect setup to have one zone for yard and one zone for bed, the zones are mixed and matched so the plumbing goes to both the bed and yard in different places.
- The most significant issue is that whoever installed this system tied it into the house water line before it gets to the house. The line that comes from the meter in the front yard to the house is PVC. This will be the first sprinkler system where the water for the sprinkler system is not coming from the house There are pluses and minuses for this. As it is I can turn off the water in the house when we go on vacation and the sprinkler system still works.
- Installing a Master Valve- not a big deal. I asume it's still conventional wisdon that a Master Valve should be used? My understanding is that a regular inline valve can be used as a Master Valve.
- Front Yard- Wiring the two valves for the front yard (one for bed, one for yard) to come on separately and altering the plumbing to separate the yard from the bed heads, not a big deal.
- Anti-Syphon Valve- This is an issue as I have some heads that are two feet above the ground in flower beds. My understanding, the anti-syphon valve needs to be 6" above the tallest sprinkler head.
I'm considering digging out in the yard to disconnect the sprinkler water pipes from the house water line. Repair that and then next to the house where the water comes in, split the sprinkler water system off here. In this way I can run it up the wall high enough so that the anti-syphon valve is 6" above the heads in the yard. Plus I can install a blow out valve for the winter, but usually it's so warm here in the winter, I've not blown out the sprinkler in the 5 years we've lived here.
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The previous yard sprinkler project is complete. If anyone is interested in any details I can fill you in.
The next step was removing a small strip of grass between the house Foundation beds and a bed in the front yard. Does any of you have experience with flagstone walkways? Purchased the flagstone from a local stone yard. They also sell granularized granite (not sure of the official name) that serves as a base and goes in between the stones, looks very nice and is supposed to harden and stay in place as it bakes in the sun. However mine seems to partially wash a way when it rains hard. I plan on calling them back and asking, but in the mean time thought I'd float the question here. I wonder if they sell an epoxy that could be sprayed on this fine gravel to hold it in place or any other ideas?
![RenderedContent-ACF80ED4-3922-4C31-8CBE-FE8621D492C6.JPG]( "RenderedContent-ACF80ED4-3922-4C31-8CBE-FE8621D492C6.JPG")
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The next step was removing a small strip of grass between the house Foundation beds and a bed in the front yard. Does any of you have experience with flagstone walkways? Purchased the flagstone from a local stone yard. They also sell granularized granite (not sure of the official name) that serves as a base and goes in between the stones, looks very nice and is supposed to harden and stay in place as it bakes in the sun. However mine seems to partially wash a way when it rains hard. I plan on calling them back and asking, but in the mean time thought I'd float the question here. I wonder if they sell an epoxy that could be sprayed on this fine gravel to hold it in place or any other ideas?
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That only works if the material is premixed with a binder like cement. And you're supposed to wet it after packing it in, then pack it again. I know what you're talking about, though. I've used it in the past with an addon stain agent. Did you prewet the material and stamp it? What you're talking about is akin to dumping a mixture of mortar and cement in dry form onto the ground, placing pavers and then wetting the area. This will set it. Either one won't set well if you lay it on thick. It needs to be mixed to be slapped on thick.The previous yard sprinkler project is complete. If anyone is interested in any details I can fill you in.
The next step was removing a small strip of grass between the house Foundation beds and a bed in the front yard. Does any of you have experience with flagstone walkways? Purchased the flagstone from a local stone yard. They also sell granularized granite (not sure of the official name) that serves as a base and goes in between the stones, looks very nice and is supposed to harden and stay in place as it bakes in the sun. However mine seems to partially wash a way when it rains hard. I plan on calling them back and asking, but in the mean time thought I'd float the question here. I wonder if they sell an epoxy that could be sprayed on this fine gravel to hold it in place or any other ideas?
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I've never heard of water soluble epoxy. It'd have to be water down considerably to seep through and would need multiple applications.
I did stamp it, and wet it after it was down, but once the stone is in place, the stamper does not seem to be an option.
I just cant figure how it works as you can forum groups or zones using your irrigation timer settings.
Flagstone
you might just put up with how the rain washes out the material?
if unacceptable; use a small trawl and put some mortar in between the stone:
Use a garden hose and wash out 1-1.5" out from the flag stone. Get a few bags of pre-mix mortar and point this in between the stone. Use some masking tape to prevent slopping the mortar onto the stone. Add a medium brown/red cement die for the mortar if you like. after the mortar is some what setup remove the tape and clean each flag stone with a large sponge and bucket of water & TSP. Wear gloves to prevent the die coloring your hands. after a few weeks put a coating of exterior poly urethane or at least 30% linseed oil 60% cheap paint thinner coating. You will get a few years out of this.
Odd. Sounds like you got a faulty batch. If you did it like that it should have settled and compacted by now. When it rains or when you water, can you see it eroding or do you think it might be dust and whatnot leftover?
dielectric grease will work great; tho it will attract dirt and grime.
consider:
-Screw the bulb only tight enough to make electrical contact
-Caution but bend the socket center tab a bit up so the bulb makes better contact. Always a chance the light socket could be mis wired in that hot and natural are swapped at some point. The controlling wall switch should totally turn off the hot.
-older fixtures (thow now in their death days) lasted longer, had different metals and construction that corroded less. Their construction dissipated heat better faster. On the new Lowes Glacier Bay fixtures use a LED bulb, generating less heat will corrode the contacts less.
consider:
-Screw the bulb only tight enough to make electrical contact
-Caution but bend the socket center tab a bit up so the bulb makes better contact. Always a chance the light socket could be mis wired in that hot and natural are swapped at some point. The controlling wall switch should totally turn off the hot.
-older fixtures (thow now in their death days) lasted longer, had different metals and construction that corroded less. Their construction dissipated heat better faster. On the new Lowes Glacier Bay fixtures use a LED bulb, generating less heat will corrode the contacts less.
I have no idea what you're describing. My outdoor fixtures were replaced along with their wiring the last time we remodeled. And prior to that, I gutted the entire place when I bought it and rebuilt it from the ground up. Seems you're describing fixtures and whatnot from the 50s to mid 90s.
My post was not about moisture getting in, it wouldn't matter, but about it not being difficult to replace. Anyway, I'm probably going to add some high power LED floods in the spring or summer. Also, are you sure about your reference? Glacier Bay is an in-house brand of Home Depot's.
Anybody got any good tips on removing mastic (sealant) around a bath? Mines gone mouldy and needs replacing.
Ended up using a dual compound made for electrical connections. No need for drama.
Without using a special tool all you need is a small knife, a hooked pick, and a scraper. You can use a rag dipped in acetone to remove any remaining residue. You'll want the area to be bone dry. Use an appropriate sealant made for high humidity use. Don't use the bath for 3-4 days so it cures properly. If you do it right, it should last a very long time.
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i assume its silicone sealant on your tub?
Try to remove the mold on the old material. In a spray bottle mix cold water and some strong bleach. Some times this is enough to resolve the mold. use inexpensive paint thinner to remove soap scum.
not to many options for removal; some sort of razor blade device and start scraping. have a few different scrapers handy. Home Depot has a chemical remover which i found not to work that well.
applying the new stuff
-Clean the area well before re applying new silicone.
-i use latex gloves, dont like the stuff on my hands
-dont use the rapid dry 30 minute silicone, in case you need more time
-i use masking tape, gives a sharp look and reduces clean up.
prevent accumulation of mold on the new stuff
-keep a spray bottle of mostly water and some bleach handy spray every few days
Problem with my kitchen sink drainage.
Before I renovated my kitchen, I had a normal surface mount sink. I replaced it with a double deep farm style sink. It projects significantly lower into the cabinet, and what I notice is the over time the drain gets clogged, mostly the branch of the pipe that drains the adjoining sink, not the one where the garbage disposal is located.
It was not problem with the old sink and here is what I think is going on. The clearance from the drain of the garbage disposal is 12” above the bottom of the cabinet. The height of the drain coming out the wall in the back of the cabinet is 10” above the bottom of the cabinet, so there is only a 2” difference in height for drain action through the trap. Therefore, I think the hydraulic action of water draining, by virtue of a only 2” difference in height, makes this action weak. There are two sinks draining into one trap, and those are designed so there are some constructions which makes it easier for food to get caught...however the food has to be blow back from the garbage disposal. The other sink has a dish drainer in it, where handwashed dishes get placed to drip dry. In addition, the drain traverses out of the back of the cabinet (coming forward) 8” level before starting down to connect to the trap that connects both sinks.
So, I’m soliticiting opinions on how to minimize these clogs. So far, I’ve had to take the drain apart 4 times to clean it out. Thanks in advance for the anticipated help!!
![378941-l-smooth-reversible-smooth-concave-face-double-fireclay-sink-white_3.jpg]()
Same style, but not the sink in my kitchen...
![Under Sink.edited.jpg]( "Under Sink.edited.jpg")
Before I renovated my kitchen, I had a normal surface mount sink. I replaced it with a double deep farm style sink. It projects significantly lower into the cabinet, and what I notice is the over time the drain gets clogged, mostly the branch of the pipe that drains the adjoining sink, not the one where the garbage disposal is located.
It was not problem with the old sink and here is what I think is going on. The clearance from the drain of the garbage disposal is 12” above the bottom of the cabinet. The height of the drain coming out the wall in the back of the cabinet is 10” above the bottom of the cabinet, so there is only a 2” difference in height for drain action through the trap. Therefore, I think the hydraulic action of water draining, by virtue of a only 2” difference in height, makes this action weak. There are two sinks draining into one trap, and those are designed so there are some constructions which makes it easier for food to get caught...however the food has to be blow back from the garbage disposal. The other sink has a dish drainer in it, where handwashed dishes get placed to drip dry. In addition, the drain traverses out of the back of the cabinet (coming forward) 8” level before starting down to connect to the trap that connects both sinks.
- Possible solution, start the drain that comes out of the back wall (currently 8" level), down sooner.
- I can lower the trap about 4 inches, but the differential between the disposal drain, and the height of the drain going into the wall will remain the same.
- I’m not sure if 2 traps would be better, one for each sink would work with a single drain out.
- Look for a shorter garbage disposal, but the disposal part above the motor is 6" tall. Overall shorter I don't think this would help me if the drain height remains 6" below the bottom of the sink.
So, I’m soliticiting opinions on how to minimize these clogs. So far, I’ve had to take the drain apart 4 times to clean it out. Thanks in advance for the anticipated help!!
Same style, but not the sink in my kitchen...
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