It's really a shame that you can't buy quality cabinets from most places. You might pay more, but check out a custom cabinet shop. You can have them made with real wood, instead of particle board.I hate dealing with plumbing. I seem to always have them tightened too tight, or not enough. Ugh! Nice job. One thing I will be doing from now on and I wish I did it before, was put down one of the metal tray's that covers the entire wood bottom of the cabinet and also has flanges that go up the sides of the cabinet. This is in case there is a leak it doesn't destroy or damage your cabinet base or baseboards.
We went cabinet shopping this weekend, getting ready to do the kitchen and master bath, and these little plates would have saved us quite a bit in repairs if we had them. Going to be using them on everything that deals with water and cabinets from now on lol.
It's really a shame that you can't buy quality cabinets from most places. You might pay more, but check out a custom cabinet shop. You can have them made with real wood, instead of particle board.
Where did you find them? The cabinets I see in the home centers, have wood doors but the rest of it is made out of laminated particle board.The cabinets that we did buy were of great quality, solid wood. But they didn't have the above piece I am referencing which is something we just learned about this past weekend. Why they didn't have this before when we re-did our previous kitchen at our old house is beyond me! I wish I would have known about it. I love the idea of being able to protect investment especially when it comes to water damage. This new feature, well it might not be new but new to us is something we really like and plan on incorporating into our new cabinets!
Where did you find them? The cabinets I see in the home centers, have wood doors but the rest of it is made out of laminated particle board.
Thanks!
I’m going to recommend Direct Buy (https://www.directbuy.com/) to you or anyone who is about to start a house project if you have one close to you, with the caveat that I don’t know what the new member fee is. See: http://www.hfndigital.com/housewares/directbuy-shifts-subscription-based-memberships/
About 4 years ago, we remodeled out kitchen. I payed a $5000 fee to join, and we saved well more than that in our project. But you had to spend money to save money. Since then Direct Buy reorganized, closed their US franchise locations and have reopened some of them as company stores. They gave us a free renewal membership which is about $300 a year. This maybe different than a new membership.
I am getting ready to start a master bathroom project. We spent several hours there (DB) today, and their quote for cabinets was very positive. We have an appointment tomorrow at Lowe’s and I’ll post how much the comparison quote is.
What got my attention today is that the $2500 American Standard freestanding tub my wife wants is $1300 at DB! Compared to MSRP, we checked several items, toilet, sinks, etc and everything was running about 1/2 off retail. This is compared to close to, if not MSRP at Lowe’s when my wife checked tub prices there.
I’ll probably stick with the Direct Buy deal. These cabinets are high quality, with plywood instead of particle board with cherry fronts so high enough quality for me.I go with a custom cabinet maker. It can be expensive, but you're saving money since it's solid wood throughout. Benedettini does some nice work in your neck of the woods, Hunt.
At this point, I plan on doing most of the work. I just want to be sure that with an open entrance to the shower that most of the water goes down the drain, and not out into the bathroom so I’ll be talking to some contractors about that or maybe I can find a good link. We are still in planning stages so I’m not locked into a particular design.That can be done on old concrete or it torn and redone. That is pretty much what I had done on the master bath when I first bought this house. It had one of those fiberglass tub shower things and the contractors did that, used some sheeting and some pink goop that was opaque and went on clear. We remodeled roughly a decade later and tore everything out and there was no mold. The drain itself is likely going to be sheathed. You guys have your work cut out for you with an open entrance, but it looks great in my head.
I'm not sure how big your stall will be, but if you can spare some room, have them put in a small shelf that can be marbled over. Or one of those sitting bench thingamajigs.
Yeah, that's why we didn't opt for doing it, too. I'd think it would have to do with the placement of the shower head or heads, too. A top down angle might be fine, but I'm not sure about wall outlet and water reach depending on how it can force water through the holes.At this point, I plan on doing most of the work. I just want to be sure that with an open entrance to the shower that most of the water goes down the drain, and not out into the bathroom so I’ll be talking to some contractors about that or maybe I can find a good link. We are still in planning stages so I’m not locked into a particular design.
I am open to have a contractor do what I’m not sure I can do. Most likely I’ll have our dry wall finished by a pro.Yeah, that's why we didn't opt for doing it, too. I'd think it would have to do with the placement of the shower head or heads, too. A top down angle might be fine, but I'm not sure about wall outlet and water reach depending on how it can force water through the holes.
I remember you saying this was a small update you guys had in mind. It's spanned so much in the last year. Maybe for the summer, you'll build out a new porch and whatnot.
Any competent tile contractor will know how to install a vinyl (PVC) shower pan. It comes in 4, 5, or 6' wide on long rolls. It will be orange blue or grey. I prefer this kind over the roll on stuff. There is a 3 piece drain made for this kind of pan. Notch out the studs about 8" high, so it doesn't make the cement wall board bulge out. You install the bottom piece of the drain, then the pan, then the top two pieces of the drain. Then you mix portland cement, sand (no rock) and a little water. If it is over a slab, start out at 2" (3" if over a conventional floor) and taper down to the drain. A small shower will work with the drain of 1/4" slope.My wife wants to replace an enclosed shower stall, with a new one with 2 sides of cultured marble, a third glass wall, and where the door used to be, left open. The current stall has a plastic base that contains the water and directs it to the drain. I’m afraid if we remove that and just run floor tile into that space, the water may go all over the place instead I’d down the drain.
My impression when a shower is initially designed this way on a concrete floor, that a slight dip can be put into the concrete so the water heads towards the drain. But this will in essence be a retro fit. I’ll talk to the tile people about any special precautions when running floor tile into a shower stall. Maybe there is a cultured marble floor piece to use instead, but that will change the appearance than tile going into the shower stall.
We are picturing a shower stall where the tile on the floor in the bathroom runs into the shower area with no discernible pan and wonder if that is practical for a remodel with a concrete floor?Any competent tile contractor will know how to install a vinyl (PVC) shower pan. It comes in 4, 5, or 6' wide on long rolls. It will be orange blue or grey. I prefer this kind over the roll on stuff. There is a 3 piece drain made for this kind of pan. Notch out the studs about 8" high, so it doesn't make the cement wall board bulge out. You install the bottom piece of the drain, then the pan, then the top two pieces of the drain. Then you mix portland cement, sand (no rock) and a little water. If it is over a slab, start out at 2" (3" if over a conventional floor) and taper down to the drain. A small shower will work with the drain of 1/4" slope.
I left out quite a few steps, but if your contractor doesn't know how to do this, move on to the next one.
Yes, that is called a handicapped shower. It involves gluing several pans together, and mudding (portland and sand) the whole bathroom floor. Very expensive.We are picturing a shower stall where the tile on the floor in the bathroom runs into the shower ares with no discernible pan and wonder if that is practical for a remodel with a concrete floor?
Thanks! I’ll be asking about this. I’m ok with a reduced pan as an alternative.Yes, that is called a handicapped shower. It involves gluing several pans together, and mudding (portland and sand) the whole bathroom floor. Very expensive.
I don't know what you mean by a reduced pan, but the type of pan that I'm talking about, will not be seen after it is finished.Thanks! I’ll be asking about this. I’m ok with a reduced pan as an alternative.
Is there a discernible edge between the bathroom floor and the base of the shower. Could you possibly locate and post an image link of what you are describing? Thanks!I don't know what you mean by a reduced pan, but the type of pan that I'm talking about, will not be seen after it is finished.
This isn't a handicapped shower, but this is what I'm talking about. Pan with the tapered mud floor.I always install the cement wall board before the mud floor, so It doesn't need nails at the bottom.Is there a discernible edge between the bathroom floor and the base of the shower. Could you possibly locate and post an image link of what you are describing? Thanks!
Thanks for these illustrations!This isn't a handicapped shower, but this is what I'm talking about. Pan with the tapered mud floor.I always install the cement wall board before the mud floor, so It doesn't need nails at the bottom.
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If done correctly, this has a pan under it too. This is some ugly tile.
We were at the tile store today and got my wife to move away from the no threshold shower after we talked to a store accociate who worked as a plumber. For the shower walls, we are considering both cultured marble and a porcelain slab. My wife did not like the colors of cultured marble. The porcelain slab is still a possibility but we were told it requires a certified technician to install. Because of this and the floor of the shower, I may sub out the shower to a contractor.This isn't a handicapped shower, but this is what I'm talking about. Pan with the tapered mud floor.I always install the cement wall board before the mud floor, so It doesn't need nails at the bottom.
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[doublepost=1519058794][/doublepost] View attachment 751778
If done correctly, this has a pan under it too. This is some ugly tile.
Quartz tile might be something she likes. You'll probably want to go to a tile store rather than a big box store. They'll have access to better materials. Because of its nature, you can get just about any pattern you guys desire.
It'll be easier to maintain and clean in the future. Cleaning wise, the best tip I ever got was to use those nylon sponges meant for delicate glass. The kind that looks like a tiny poodle minus the dog bits. That works beautifully on any building. You can pretty much avoid all hard chemicals meant for stonework that way. A steam cleaner works great, too, but I've yet to find one that's durable and costs less than a few hundred.